When people think about the wines of Veneto, they usually think about Prosecco. Some might mention Amarone or Soave, but very few wine lovers would immediately think of Lison DOCG.
That was certainly the case for me before attending a masterclass organised by the Consorzio Vini Venezia. While I was familiar with some of the better-known wines from the region, Lison DOCG and the Tai grape were largely unknown territory. By the end of the tasting, however, they had become some of the most interesting discoveries I made last year.
The masterclass focused mainly on two styles of wine: Lison DOCG and Manzoni Bianco. Although they are very different, both tell an important part of the story of the Venezia wine region and show that there is much more to these vineyards than most people realise.
The Wines of Venezia
The Consorzio Vini Venezia protects five denominations spread across Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Lison DOCG, Malanotte del Piave DOCG, Venezia DOC, Piave DOC and Lison-Pramaggiore DOC. Together they represent centuries of wine-growing history connected to the former Venetian Republic and the fertile lands surrounding Venice.
The region itself benefits from a unique location. The Adriatic Sea and the Venetian lagoon help moderate temperatures, while the Alps in the distance contribute to temperature differences between day and night. Local winds such as the Bora and Scirocco also play their role. All these influences help grapes ripen while preserving freshness, something that became very obvious during the tasting.
What I enjoyed most about this masterclass was that it focused on wines many people have never heard of. It is always exciting to discover a famous wine region from a completely different angle, and that is exactly what happened here.
What Is Lison DOCG?
Lison DOCG is one of the most historic white wine denominations in northeastern Italy. The production area stretches across both Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, making it one of the few DOCG denominations shared between two Italian regions.
The denomination is built around one grape variety: Tai.
If the name sounds unfamiliar, you may have heard its former name, Tocai. For many years the grape was known as Tocai di Lison, but after European regulations regarding the use of the Tokaji name, producers gradually adopted the name Tai. The grape itself remained exactly the same and continues to be the foundation of every Lison DOCG wine produced today.
The vineyards are located only a short distance from the Adriatic coast. Together with the local caranto soils, rich in clay and calcium carbonate, these conditions create wines that combine freshness, texture and ageing potential in a way that feels quite distinctive.
Before the tasting, I expected the wines to be mainly about fruit and aromatics. Instead, what stood out most was their texture and balance. These were not wines trying to impress with intense aromas. They revealed themselves slowly and became more interesting with every sip.
The Tai Grape: The Heart of Lison DOCG
One thing became very clear after tasting several examples side by side: Tai is a grape with a very clear identity.
It does not behave like Sauvignon Blanc, which often relies on aromatic intensity, and it is usually richer and more textured than Pinot Grigio. Some examples can have a similar body to Chardonnay, but the flavour profile is completely different.
The one characteristic that appeared again and again throughout the tasting was almond. Sometimes it reminded me of fresh almonds, sometimes roasted almonds and occasionally even marzipan. Alongside that came notes of pear, apple, peach and subtle floral aromas.
What I found particularly interesting was how food-friendly these wines felt. Many white wines work best as an aperitif, but Lison DOCG seemed perfectly comfortable at the dining table. The wines had enough freshness to stay lively, but also enough body and texture to pair with richer dishes.
The more wines I tasted, the more I understood why producers are so passionate about Tai. It may not be one of Italy’s most famous grapes, but it feels completely at home in this part of Veneto.
What Makes Lison Classico Special?
Within the broader Lison DOCG denomination lies a smaller historic area known as Lison Classico. This is considered the traditional heartland of the denomination and many producers believe it produces some of the finest expressions of the Tai grape.
Part of the reason is the presence of caranto, a compact clay and limestone soil formed thousands of years ago. Combined with the maritime influence of the nearby Adriatic, these soils help create wines with concentration, freshness and ageing potential.
Mazzolada – Lison Classico DOCG 2023
The first Lison DOCG wine we tasted came from Mazzolada, a winery closely linked to the historic Lison area. Produced entirely from Tai and fermented in stainless steel, the wine provided an excellent introduction to both the grape and the denomination.
The wine showed a bright light golden colour with large tears on the glass. On the nose, I found acacia blossom, ripe peach, pear and yellow apple, together with a touch of white pepper and a subtle buttery note. On the palate, those aromas returned alongside a slight touch of honey that added another layer of complexity.
What I liked most was the balance between freshness and richness. The wine had more body than I expected, but never felt heavy. For me, this was the wine where I really started to understand what Tai is all about.
Served at 10-12°C, it would be a great match for creamy pasta dishes, richer seafood or hard cheeses.
Ornella Bellia – Lison DOCG 2022
The Bellia family has been producing wine in the Venezia area for generations and their Lison DOCG spends time ageing on its lees to develop additional texture and complexity.
This was the wine where the almond character of Tai became impossible to miss. The nose opened with almond, Williams pear and pineapple before developing notes of vanilla, brioche, melted butter and a touch of smoke. It immediately felt more mature and more complex than the previous wine.
On the palate, almond and honey took centre stage, supported by ripe yellow fruits and subtle oak spice. Despite its richness, the wine remained remarkably fresh. It was also one of those wines that kept changing in the glass, revealing new aromas each time I returned to it.
This is exactly the kind of white wine that reminds you how beautifully white wines can age.
Tenuta Polvaro – Lison Classico DOCG 2021
The final Lison DOCG wine came from Tenuta Polvaro. Part of the wine spends four months in French oak barriques, while the remainder ages on its lees.
Out of all the Lison DOCG wines we tasted, this was the one that felt the most complete to me. The nose combined ripe stone fruits, lemon, almond, acacia blossom and elderflower with subtle peppery spice and a gentle creamy character.
On the palate, everything felt beautifully integrated. The fruit, floral notes, spice and almond character all worked together naturally, while the finish lingered with a distinctive bitter-citrus and almond note that immediately invited another sip.
This wine showed just how much potential Lison DOCG has. Complex, balanced and incredibly food-friendly, it was probably the clearest demonstration of the denomination’s quality.
Why I Was Surprised by Manzoni Bianco
The second major focus of the masterclass was Manzoni Bianco.
Before this tasting, it wasn’t really on my radar. After tasting several examples side by side, I completely understood why producers are so enthusiastic about it.
Manzoni Bianco was created in the 1930s by Professor Luigi Manzoni through a crossing of Riesling Renano and Pinot Bianco. Unlike many crossings that never gain much attention, this one became a genuine success story.
What impressed me most was its versatility. Some wines leaned towards citrus and floral aromas, while others showed remarkable richness and complexity. Despite these differences, they all retained freshness and balance.
Cantine Borga – Manzoni Bianco Venezia DOC 2024
Founded in 1940, Cantine Borga remains a family-owned winery deeply connected to the Treviso area. Their Manzoni Bianco spends five to six months ageing in stainless steel before bottling.
The wine showed a bright pale lemon colour and aromas of white flowers, elderflower, lemon peel, apricot and a touch of grapefruit. On the palate, citrus and floral notes remained the focus, joined by green apple and a slight oily texture that added complexity.
Fresh, balanced and easy to enjoy, this is exactly the kind of wine I would reach for on a warm summer evening.
The Bellussera Tradition
One of the most fascinating stories from the masterclass was Bellussera, a historic vine-training system developed in the Piave area during the nineteenth century. The vines grow high above the ground on a geometric framework, originally allowing farmers to cultivate other crops underneath while improving airflow in the vineyard.
Today only a small number of Bellussera vineyards remain, making them an important part of the region’s wine heritage.
Ca’ di Rajo – Nina Manzoni Bianco Piave DOC 2024
Ca’ di Rajo is one of the wineries helping preserve this tradition. Their Nina comes from Bellussera-trained vineyards and undergoes partial on-vine drying before harvest, followed by a short period of ageing in tonneaux.
If I had to choose one wine that surprised me most during the tasting, it would be this one.
The nose opened with pineapple, apricot, peach blossom and tropical fruits, while delicate floral notes added freshness and lift. On the palate, the wine had more depth and texture than the previous Manzoni Bianco, yet it remained fresh and energetic throughout.
This was the wine that made me fully appreciate the potential of Manzoni Bianco. It combined richness, freshness and complexity in a way that felt both distinctive and easy to enjoy.
Why More People Should Know About Lison DOCG
If there was one takeaway from this masterclass, it was that Lison DOCG deserves far more attention than it currently receives. Before attending, I probably would have mentioned Pinot Grigio if someone asked me about the wines of Venice. Now I would answer very differently.
Lison DOCG showed me a side of Veneto that I rarely encounter. Wines with texture, character and a very clear identity built around the Tai grape. They are food-friendly, age-worthy and surprisingly distinctive once you know what to look for.
Manzoni Bianco was a wonderful discovery too, but it was Lison DOCG that stayed with me long after the tasting ended.
If you enjoy discovering lesser-known grape varieties and wine regions, this is definitely one to put on your list.
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