Explore Schilcher and the great white wines of Steiermark! – a Sommelier’s Guide

Welcome, wine enthusiasts, to the captivating region of Steiermark in Austria! Nestled in the southeastern part of the country, Steiermark, also known as Styria, offers a mesmerizing blend of history, diverse terroir, a favorable climate, and a vibrant wine culture. Join me on this enlightening journey and discover the regions main key factors with a particular focus on minerality, the distinctive Schilcher, and the region’s exceptional white wines.

Myself, I discovered the amazing potential of this region recently, on a “Präsentation des Steirischen Weines in Wien 2023” tasting a couple of weeks ago which took place in the beautiful and historic venue of Hofburg in Vienna. The same day, I tried a Schilcher for the very first time in my life but I got to taste a whole bunch of them straight away. This tasting inspired the article to show what the wines of Steiermark can give you and what type of wines you should look out from this breathtaking Austrian wine region.

A Glimpse into the History of Steiermark

Steiermark boasts a long winemaking tradition that dates back to the Roman era. Vineyards were cultivated by monks in medieval times, and by the 19th century, it was recognized as a top-quality wine region. Despite setbacks caused by phylloxera in the late 19th century and two World Wars, Steiermark’s winemakers have displayed resilience and determination, reviving the region’s viticultural legacy and elevating its reputation to new heights.

Südsteiermark

Terroir and Climate

Steiermark’s terroir is characterized by its diverse landscapes and soils, which contribute to the unique characteristics of the wines produced here. The region can be divided into three major zones: Südsteiermark, Weststeiermark, and Vulkanland.

Südsteiermark, the southern part of the region, is marked by rolling hills, with vineyards predominantly situated on steep slopes. The soils here are primarily composed of marl and sandstone, imparting minerality and elegance to the wines.

Weststeiermark, located in the western part of Steiermark, is renowned for its Schilcher wines, which we will explore in detail later. The region’s vineyards are perched on terraces, benefiting from the cooling influence of the Koralpe Mountains. The soils here are diverse, ranging from slate and clay to sandy loam.

Vulkanland, found in the southeast, showcases volcanic formations that shape the soils and contribute to the region’s distinctive wines. The volcanic rocks, such as basalt and tuff, coupled with loamy and clay-rich soils, provide a fertile ground for cultivating exceptional grape varieties.

The climate in Steiermark is influenced by the Alps to the north and the Pannonian Plain to the east. This unique geography creates a continental climate with warm summers and cool nights, facilitating a long ripening period for the grapes. The diurnal temperature variation helps to preserve acidity and develop complex aromas in the wines.

Gelber Traminer

Grape Varieties in Steiermark

Steiermark is home to a diverse range of indigenous and international grape varieties, each expressing its unique character. Without mentioning all of the planted white grapes in the region, let’s explore some of the most important varieties that thrive here:

  • Sauvignon Blanc: This aromatic white grape variety, originally from France, is the pride of Steiermark. It thrives in the region’s diverse terroir, showcasing an array of flavors ranging from vibrant citrus and tropical fruits to herbaceous notes. Steiermark’s Sauvignon Blanc wines often exhibit a distinct minerality, reflecting the region’s soils.
  • Welschriesling: A local specialty, however, its origin is not proven or confirmed, a versatile grape that can be crafted into a variety of styles, from crisp and refreshing to noble sweet wines. The most planted variety here for a reason; expect lively acidity, citrus flavors, and an appealing freshness in these wines.
  • Morillon (or Chardonnay): This noble grape which is a synonym with Burgundy, finds a home in Steiermark, where it thrives in the region’s cooler climate. Locally known as Morillon, Chardonnay is a key player in Steiermark’s winemaking scene. The wines crafted from this grape exhibit exceptional minerality, purity, and finesse. They often feature notes of ripe stone fruits, citrus, and a harmonious balance of acidity and texture with subtle oak integration.
  • Gelber Muskateller: This aromatic variety is known for its intense floral aromas, vibrant acidity, and delightful citrus flavors. Gelber Muskateller wines from Steiermark are an embodiment of freshness and charm, making them a delightful choice for warm summer days.
  • Traminer (Roter Traminer, Gelber Traminer, and Gewürztraminer): the main varieties mostly in Vulkanland have some fascinating facts. Supposedly selected from wild vines, Traminer is one of the oldest European grape varieties. It is presumed to have been cultivated by the Romans as Vitis Aminera. The variety is differentiated by the colors of its berries. Roter Traminer is red, Gewürztraminer is a light red/pink color and Gelber Traminer is yellow. The grapes also deliver different nuances of spiciness (“Gewürz” means spice in German) influenced by the wine’s terroir. In terms of their name, however, all of these Traminer types may be referred to as Gewürztraminer. Traminer is often a parent in natural crossings, such as in the case of Grüner Veltliner.
Blauer Wildbacher

Diverse Wine Styles

There are definitely some styles and wine-making methods that you should consider discovering when drinking or tasting a wine from Steiermark. In my opinion, look out for these wines and terms:

  • Minerality: Steiermark is renowned for its wines that exhibit a captivating minerality, reflecting the region’s soils. The combination of diverse geological formations and a favorable climate creates wines with a distinct sense of place. These wines often display flavors of flint, wet stones, and a vibrant salinity that adds an extra layer of complexity.
  • Schilcher: No exploration of Steiermark is complete without mentioning the unique and fascinating Schilcher wine. Produced exclusively in Weststeiermark, Schilcher is made from the indigenous Blauer Wildbacher grape. These rosé wines are renowned for their vibrant acidity, refreshing red berry flavors, and a touch of spritz with a little bit of sour aftertaste. It exists in a still and sparkling version too!
  • The White Wines: although there is a small red wine production, white wines are the true super stars here. From the vibrant Sauvignon Blancs and enchanting Morillons to the aromatic Gelber Muskateller, these white wines offer a wide spectrum of flavors and styles. Steiermark’s white wines are known for their balance, finesse, and remarkable aging potential packed with the above-mentioned minerality.

DAC system in Steiermark

To ensure quality and authenticity, Steiermark has implemented Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) classifications for its wines. The DAC system highlights specific regions and grape varieties, allowing consumers to make informed choices. Typically regional Südsteiermark DAC wines are classified – like their counterparts in Weststeiermark and Vulkanland Steiermark – into three categories: Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (“villages” wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine). The additional “Reserve” designation is used to denote wines that have been matured for a longer period of time. All Steiermark DAC wines must be harvested by hand.

The DACs of Steiermark include:

  • Südsteiermark DAC: This DAC focuses on Sauvignon Blanc and represents the best wines produced in the southern part of Steiermark. Look for wines with vibrant acidity, intense fruit flavors, and distinct minerality.
  • Weststeiermark DAC: The Weststeiermark DAC is home to the unique Schilcher wines. These lively, unique rosé terroir wine is vinified from Blauer Wildbacher grapes, which are the predominant local variety.
  • Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: one grape variety here holds particular appeal: the highly aromatic Traminer with its aromatic flavor profile and spiciness.

Conclusion

Congratulations on reaching the end of your virtual sommelier-guided tour through the enchanting wine region of Steiermark! I hope this article has deepened your appreciation for the rich history, diverse terroir, and exceptional wines that Steiermark has to offer. To continue your exploration, I encourage you to seek out wines from Steiermark, either through your local wine shops or by visiting the region yourself! Let your palate be your guide as you savor the minerality, discover the unique Schilcher, and indulge in the elegant white wines crafted by Steiermark’s passionate winemakers.

Sources:

Austrian Wine

WEIN STEIERMARK

Photos owned by @Austrian Wine

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