The Colli Berici wine region is located in the province of Vicenza in northern Italy. It has a long history of winemaking dating back to the ancient Roman era. In recent times, the region has become known for its production of Bordeaux varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere. Colli Berici got the classification of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) here only 50 years ago. It recognized the unique characteristics of the wines produced in the region, mainly from those grapes mentioned earlier with the main local grape, Tai Rosso.
Colli Berici DOC
The region lies on 600 hectares where around 650 wine growers work daily on the vineyards. The total production of Colli Berici DOC is around 2 million bottles per year. The local geology is limestone with chalk, clay soils and sediment, similar to the one in Valpolicella Riserva. The best vineyards are on free-draining and south-facing slopes. The highest altitude here is around 300 metres, so they can avoid the risks of frost and fog. The trees are on the top of the hills and the vineyards are surrounded by forest. The history of Colli Berici is strongly associated with Tai Rosso.
Tai Rosso
Tai Rosso is the Grenache Noir of France and the Garnacha of Spain. It’s also the Cannonau of Sardinia and the Gamay del Trasimeno of Umbria. It is believed to have been here for hundreds of years. Some think that it has arrived from Avignon in France, the home of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The Cardinals of Vicenza supported and visited the Avignon Popes during the Papal Schism. Hence, it’s possible that cuttings of the Grenache vines returned with them.
However, this grape has gone native in the Colli Berici. It has bigger grape berries and thicker skins than Grenache in France or Spain. It seems to produce higher acidity, less sugar, and paler colour. Practically, Tai Rosso is a biotype of Grenache Noir and Cannonau, they are genetically identical. However, there’s been centuries of local adaptation in the region. That means Tai Rosso has the same DNA but a different look and taste.
Today, Tai Rosso is grown on a significant portion of the vineyards in the Colli Berici wine region, and it is used to produce a range of different wines, including varietal wines and blends. It is a late-ripening grape variety that is well-suited to the warm, sunny climate of the Colli Berici. It is a low-yielding grape, which means that it produces relatively small quantities of fruit per vine. The wines produced from Tai Rosso grapes are big and full-bodied, frequently maturing in oak barrels.
Usually a light ruby red colour, Tai Rosso has a full aroma, typically cherry, raspberry, red flowers and violets. There are plenty of those fruit flavours and an herb character with refreshing acidity and restricted tannin structure.
Bordeaux grapes
Tai Rosso’s unique character and high quality made it a favourite amongst the regional wine makers and drinkers. However, later in the beginning of 19th century, noble families from Austria arrived in the area. They had a different taste for international varieties and thanks to them, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) started to thrive here. This has started the new era of experimentation with the Bordeaux varieties.
Merlot came a little bit later, not as a request of the noble families, rather from the poor people’s grape as it was much easier to produce good quality wines as from the previously mentioned varieties. Today, Merlot is the second most planted grape in the region, just after Cabernet Sauvignon and right before Tai Rosso.
Carmenere is a newcomer in the region with an expanding cultivation year by year. Now, 4% of the total production comes from Carmenere and we can expect more and more every year. Though it has been grown there for more than 200 years. It is believed that it has arrived together with Cabernet Franc but at that times they were confused which one’s which. It is a late ripening variety just like Tai Rosso, so it has found its home in the Colli Berici.
Colli Berici has a much drier and warmer climate than Bordeaux, no wonder the native grapes next to the Gironde River can thrive here. We can find World Class Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc here with a full body, ripe fruit flavour profile and the ability to age them beautifully. They are of course often blended together with Tai Rosso and Carmenere to create wines with a unique character.
Conclusion
The history of Bordeaux varieties in the Colli Berici wine region is a story of innovation and adaptation. While the region is known for its indigenous variety, Tai Rosso, winemakers in the region recognized the potential of Bordeaux varieties too. Today, Bordeaux varieties are a key part of the region’s winemaking tradition just like Tai Rosso. The grape’s ability to produce high-quality wines that are distinctive and unique has made it highly prized by local winemakers, and it has become a symbol of the region’s cultural heritage.
Have you tasted a wine from Colli Berici before?
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