We can never talk enough about one of the greatest wine regions in France, but arguably also in the world. Champagne is unique not only because of the sparkling wine made there, but also because of its soil, climate and grape varieties. Of course, three main grapes account for around 99% of plantings, but today let’s look at the remaining 1% and the lesser-known Champagne grape varieties that you may not have heard about.
The 7 grape varieties allowed in Champagne
There are 7 grape varieties officially allowed in Champagne. The most well-known are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. But what about the other four?
Today’s focus is on Pinot Gris (perhaps you are more familiar with Pinot Grigio — it is the same variety), Pinot Blanc (a very successful grape in Alsace), Petit Meslier (a valuable addition to Champagne blends) and Arbane (the rarest of them all, with not even 1 hectare planted).
So let’s take a closer look at these lesser-known Champagne grape varieties.
Pinot Gris in Champagne
Pinot Gris is a colour mutation of Pinot Noir that originated in Burgundy, where historically it was called Fromenteau. It has been known since the Middle Ages and spread alongside Pinot Noir, eventually finding its place all over the world.
In Italy, we call it Pinot Grigio; in Germany, Grauburgunder; and in Hungary, Szürkebarát. Internationally, the two names Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are often associated with different styles of wine.
Pinot Grigio vs Pinot Gris
Pinot Grigio is generally used for light-bodied, often lean wines that are pale in colour, sometimes with lightly spritzy flavours. They tend to be crisp and acidic and are designed to be enjoyed relatively young.
Pinot Gris usually refers to medium- to full-bodied wines with a richer, somewhat floral bouquet. In Alsace, for example, they can be more spicy and have good ageing potential. They usually retain good acidity and can show a slight sweetness.
It is therefore no surprise that when Pinot Gris is used in Champagne, it can contribute fruit and floral aromas as well as richness to the blend.
Pinot Blanc in Champagne
Pinot Blanc is another colour mutation of Pinot Noir. It has historically been planted in both Burgundy and Champagne, although its greatest success came in Alsace and Germany.
We can find Pinot Blanc internationally under different names, including Weißburgunder in Germany, Austria and northern Italy, Pinot Bianco in Italy, Rulandské bílé in Czechia, Rulandské biele in Slovakia, Bijeli pinot in Croatia and Fehér Burgundi in Hungary.
Pinot Blanc brings a strong floral profile to the bouquet and lively, racy acidity to the palate — something that is particularly important in sparkling wine.
Petit Meslier: a rare Champagne grape variety
Petit Meslier is one of the rarest Champagne grape varieties. There are only around 20 hectares planted in France, and one of its greatest strengths is its naturally high acidity, which it can retain even in the warmest vintages.
It is also relatively resistant to frost, an important quality in Champagne, where spring frost has long been a major threat to vineyards.
When Petit Meslier is made into a varietal wine, it can be crisp and show distinct apple flavours. And here is a fun fact: it is a relative of Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer as well.
A few producers work with this unusual variety, including Duval-Leroy, Moutard, Laherte Frères and L. Aubry Fils.
Arbane: Champagne’s rarest grape variety
Arbane, or Arbanne, is an extremely rare grape variety historically grown in the Aube region of Champagne.
Although it is so rare, it is still used by some producers, notably in Famille Moutard’s Vieilles Vignes, which is made entirely from Arbane.
Arbane is a light-yellow, very late-ripening grape with pronounced acidity. It requires considerable attention in the vineyard and naturally produces low yields. Its flavour profile can be herbal and green.
Why these rare Champagne grape varieties matter
As global warming continues to affect vineyards, Champagne producers need grape varieties that can retain acidity. Interestingly, some of the varieties that may become increasingly valuable for this purpose have already been planted in Champagne for centuries.
The future may therefore bring a larger role for these lesser-known grapes in Champagne blends. I will definitely be looking for more wines where I can taste Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane and discover these fascinating Champagne grape varieties in the glass.
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