We can never talk enough of one of the greatest region in France but arguably in the World. Champagne is unique regarding the sparkling wine made there, the soil type and the climate. And even the grape varieties we can find there. Of course there are 3 main grapes grown in the region which makes the 99% of the plantings. But now let’s look at the remaining 1% and its planted varieties.
There are 7 grapes allowed in Champagne. The most well-known are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The lesser-knowns, and today’s focus on the other four: Pinot Gris (or maybe you are more familiar with Pinot Grigio, it is the same variety), Pinot blanc (a very successfull grape in Alsace), Petit Meslier (a big help in the blend when it is used) and Arbane (the rarest of all with not even 1 hectare planted with it).
So let’s take a closer look of these grape varieties:
- Pinot Gris: a color mutation of Pinot Noir originated from Burgundy where historically it was called Fromenteau. It has been known since the Middle Ages and spread alongside with Pinot Noir and finally find its place all over the World. In Italy we call it Pinot Grigio, in Germany Grauburgunder, Szürkebarát in Hungary. Usually it goes by two names internationally, depending the style of the wine in the bottle:
Pinot Grigio if the wine is a light-bodied, often lean wine that is light in color with sometimes spritzy flavors that can be crisp and acidic and meant to be drink in the moment.
Pinot Gris if it they are medium to full bodied wines with a rich, somewhat floral bouquet. They tend to be more spicy in Alsace where it can age well. Usually it has a good deal of acidity and slight sweetness.
It is not a surprise then when it is blended in Champagne, it offers fruit and floral aromas and richness.
- Pinot Blanc: is also a color mutation of Pinot Noir, and has been always planted in Burgundy and Champagne but the biggest success came in Alsace and Germany. We can find it internationally under different names like Weißburgunder in Germany, Austria and even in northern Italy, Pinot Bianco in Spain and the rest of Italy, Rulandské bílé in Czechia, Rulandské biele in Slovakia, Bijeli pinot in Croatia and Fehér Burgundi in Hungary. Pinot Blanc brings a strong floral profile to the bouquet of the wine and some racy acidity to the palate which is super important in sparkling wines.
- Petit Meslier: a rare variety in Champagne(there are only 20 hectares planted in France) and its strenght lies in its acidity which can be high even in the warmest vintages and its resistant of frost, a big enemy in Champagne too. When it is not blended , the wine made out of it is crisp and has a taste of apples. And here is a fun fact: it is a relative of Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer as well! There are a few producer using this variety: Duval-Leroy, Moutard, Laherte Frères and L. Aubry Fils for example.
- Arbane or Arbanne: a super rare variety historically grown in the Aube region of Champagne. Even it is so rare, still used, specially in Moutard-Diligent’s „Vieilles Vignes” which made only from this grape variety. It’s a light yellow, very late-ripening grape with overbearing acidity that often requires a lot of attention for the low yields that it produces. The flavors are often herbal or green.
As global warming urges, Champagne producers need varieties which can retain more acidity and it looks like they are already planted there centuries ago, so let’s hope that we can see a rise of these grapes in the blend and discover them more! I will definitely looking for some blends where I can taste this varieties and share them with you!
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