Have you ever tasted or heard about these two names of a grape variety? Blaufränkisch or Kékfrankos are the same grape, but in their respective countries—Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary—they can produce quite different styles of wine.
Blaufränkisch vs Kékfrankos: the same grape, different names
The origin of the variety is still something of a mystery. All we know is that the genetic stock of the variety has been clearly identified in the Carpathian Basin, which was formerly part of Austria-Hungary and is today mainly associated with Croatia and surrounding areas. It is related to Gouais blanc and Gamay, and genetic research has shown that it is a cross between Blauer Zimmettraube and Weißer Heunisch.
Despite its probably long history — certain Hungarian papers mention the variety as early as 1000 years ago — Kékfrankos became widespread in Hungary only after the phylloxera epidemic.
Kékfrankos, as it is known in Hungary, is a black grape variety described as “blue” because of its deep-blue skins. Just to make things confusing, it has nearly 40 different names, including Blauer Limberger in Germany, Lemberger in the USA, Franconia in Italy, Frankovka in the Czech Republic, and Frankovka modra in Slovakia, just to name a few.
Generally, the name depends on where the grape is grown, but it gained its international reputation as Blaufränkisch in Austria.
Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary
Why are we talking mostly about Hungary and Austria regarding this variety? These are the two countries with the largest plantings. Austria has about 3,000 hectares planted, while Hungary has more than twice as much, at around 7,000 hectares.
You might therefore expect Hungary to produce the widest range of Kékfrankos styles, but the story is more complicated. The variety has played a significant role in the shared wine history of Austria and Hungary, particularly during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy.
The unity of Sopron in Hungary and Burgenland in Austria is well illustrated by Karl Fürst’s 1847 record, in which the people of Petőelsdorf, now Pöttelsdorf in Austria, and Walbersdorf obtained vines from the vineyards of Sopron.
The post-World War I Treaty of Trianon split this contiguous wine region in two, but the special journey of these two wine regions — and the rise of Blaufränkisch — began much later.
Austria has really discovered the variety only in the last 30 years. For example, in 1989 the Mittelburgenland Blaufränkisch Association (Verband Blaufränkisch Mittelburgenland) was formed. This is where some of the stylistic differences between Austrian Blaufränkisch and Hungarian Kékfrankos really started to emerge.
Austrian Blaufränkisch: the Mittelburgenland DAC
Austria later began working towards a more unified style of Blaufränkisch when the country introduced the DAC system in 2002. Burgenland received a DAC designation for the variety, and today there are different classifications for each style.
Mittelburgenland DAC Classic
Fruity and spicy, this style is aged in large oak barrels or stainless-steel tanks. The characteristic aroma dominates, while the presence of wood is barely perceptible. It has a bright red colour and an alcohol content of 12.5% to 13%. It may not be marketed before 1 May of the year following the harvest.
Mittelburgenland DAC with indication of origin
The style is similar to the previous category but more intense, with oak potentially more noticeable. It is aged in large oak barrels or used barriques. It can be sold from 1 September following the harvest, with an alcohol content of 13% to 13.5%.
Mittelburgenland DAC Reserve
This is the most structured category, where characteristic and sometimes dominant oak notes can be found. The wines are aged in large oak barrels or barriques, have an alcohol content of at least 13%, and can only be sold from 1 January of the second year after the harvest.
Across all three categories, strawberry and cherry notes can be found in the aroma, while spicy and fruity flavours dominate on the palate.s that strawberry and cherry notes can be discovered in the aroma, and the spicy-fruity flavors dominate in the taste.
Hungarian Kékfrankos: from Sopron to Szekszárd and Eger
And what about the Hungarian side?
Unfortunately, Hungary does not have a classification system for Kékfrankos that makes choosing between different styles as straightforward for consumers, although you can find some exceptional examples throughout the country.
Hungarian Kékfrankos typically spends six months to one year in traditional large oak barrels. In Sopron, Mátra, and Eger, we can find more concentrated and silky, even creamy styles that benefit from the cooler climate.
Szekszárd is the region that focuses on the variety most strongly alongside Sopron. Here, producers often use traditional large oak barrels, making it a region to watch for great varietal Kékfrankos.
In Villány, Kékfrankos is usually blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. The grape is also the backbone of the Bull’s Blood blends in Eger and Szekszárd, alongside varietal bottlings.
What is the difference between Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos?
Comparing the two countries, we can say that Hungarian producers have often looked towards international models when shaping Kékfrankos styles: lighter wines inspired by Burgundy, spicy expressions reminiscent of the Rhône Valley, and fuller-bodied Bordeaux-inspired versions.
In Austria, however, producers increasingly realised that great Blaufränkisch is not simply about making powerful, full-bodied wine. Instead, the key lies in expressing a distinctive perfume and flavour that is unique to the area — born from the meeting of land, climate, vineyards and winemaking.
That is perhaps the most interesting answer to the question “Blaufränkisch vs Kékfrankos: what is the difference?” The grape is the same, but the regional identity and winemaking approach can make the wines taste remarkably different.
Which style of Blaufränkisch or Kékfrankos should you try?
I think it is important to taste the different styles from both countries and find the one that is really made for you and your taste. And, of course, to continue discovering more and more of the fascinating world of wine.
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