Let’s travel to Austria in our mind today, shall we? More precisely to Burgenland, the most Eastern region of the country at the Hungarian border where we can find one of the driest and warmest sub-region, Neusiedlersee and where Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt show its best.
But before we began our journey, let’s take a look on those indigenous grape varieties. There are a fair amount of them in Austria, one of the reason why this World of Wine is so diverse and gives lots of opportunities to discover more and more every day. I have already talked before about Grüner Veltliner and Blaufränkisch, these are widely planted, very popular and well-known inside and also outside of the country. I would like to present 2 other red grape variety, that has been a more hidden treasure, namely Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt.
Sankt Laurent
St. Laurent was named after St. Lawrence’s Day – August 10th – the day when the grapes begin to change colour. It is a highly aromatic dark-skinned wine grape variety. Its origins shrouded in mystery, but it is believed to have resulted from a crossing of Pinot noir with an unknown second parent. In Austria, St. Laurent is the third most popular red grape variety and is primarily grown in Lower Austria and Burgenland. Although it’s the most widely planted red grape variety in the Czechia,planting are 3 times more than in Austria itself!
It ripens in the mid-early season. With its somewhat low yield, the variety is considered difficult in the vineyard. It was not always appreciated. Needs good sites with deep soils. It is sensitive during the flowering period, and sensitive to late frost. St. Laurent delivers dark, sturdy, fruity and piquant red wines with high quality and have good ageability.
Sankt Laurent is the parent of our second grape variety, Zweigelt, that has been created in 1922 by Fritz Zweigelt by crossing Blaufränkisch with St. Laurent.
Zweigelt
It is also known as Rotburger, Zweigeltrebe, and Blauer Zweigelt and it is Widely planted in Austria on over 6,230 ha (that’s 13,9% of all the country’s plantings!). It ripens in the mid-season and as the most widespread red wine variety in Austria, Zweigelt grows in favourable sites in all of the country’s wine regions. The wine spectrum ranges from young-drinking, non-wood-matured versions to strong, firm wines from the barrique. The variety is also often used as a partner for cuvée wines.
They say, the most attractive expressions are from the Carnuntum and Neusiedlersee areas. The variety brings slightly violet-reddish coloured wines with soft tannins. High-quality wines are produced both in stainless steel as well as in barrique.
So now we can see that we are on the right place to try some great examples from Neusiedlersee, even more specifically near the village of Andau where Zantho Wine is located.
Zantho Wines
The foundation of Zantho was laid in the beginning of the millennium by Josef Umathum, a successful winemaker from Frauenkirchen, and oenologist Wolfgang Peck together with chosen members from the cooperative Domaine Andau. Today they cultivate around 80 hectares with a strong focus on sustainable and environmentally friendly working methods.
The name Zantho builds on their history. Already on the oldest dated document from 1487, which refers to the founding of the village, Andau is mentioned as Anthwaw or in Old Magyar Zantho(s). The Pannonian forest lizard – the “Dadaraxl” as the Andauer says – what we can find on all of the labels. It serves as a symbol of their origins and stands for the natural management of the vineyards.
Today, I got the chance to have a taste of their Reserve Collection and from there, I would like to highlight the red wines of this family of indigenous varieties: the Pinot Noir Reserve (as the parent grape of St. Laurent), the Sankt Laurent Reserve,the Zweigelt Reserve (offspring of Sankt Laurent as mentioned above) and the Cuvéé 1487 (which name refers to their heritage). We might can see some similarities and differences to have a final conclusion of how those varieties connected!
Pinot Noir Reserve 2018:
The grapes grow in a region which is characterized by dry, gritty and mineral soils. The grape for this wine derive from 20% schist plots, the rest from iron-rich gravels. It is certified as Sustainable Austria (Vegan). Fermentation in stainless steel tank between 28-32°C and aged 14 months in small oak barrels.
It has a lighter ruby color with medium plus viscosity. A lovely fruity nose comes forward with lots of red berries (strawberry, raspberry) with some mushroomy and smoky aromas and vanilla spices. The palate shows a wine with high acidity, medium plus alcohol content with low tannins. An easier, medium-bodied, fruity Pinot Noir with the same smoky and spicy flavours from the nose. A very good quality wine that I would love to pair with a charcuterie board !
Sankt Laurent Reserve 2017:
All Zantho red wines are certified Sustainable Austria and Vegan. This wine has been fermented in stainless steel tank and aged 12 months in small oak barrels.
The color has a medium plus depth ruby with silver hue and a medium plus viscosity. A very intense nose of ripe forest fruits (cassis, cherries, plums, blackberries, black currant), cloves, pepper, cumin with some smoked ham, dark chocolate and coffee. This wine has a very ripe and smooth but present medium tannin structure with a medium plus body and those spicy flavours identical with the nose , the same black fruits, and a pleasant medium plus finish. A very good quality wine that is capable of aging for another 10 years easily. Pair it with lamb stew, game dishes or even next to some hard cheeses!
Zweigelt Reserve 2019:
I have to admit, this is my favourite from all, the balance with the ripe aromas and smooth tannins made a perfectly enjoyable and more serious Zweigelt. It has been fermented in stainless steel tank than further aged for 11 months in small oak barrels.
It has a deep purple color with some ruby hints and a medium plus viscosity. Instense and warm nose of black fruits (black currant, blackberry, cassis, black cherry) with sweet spices of cinnamon, cloves and vanilla. The smoothest and highest tannins are here but extremely balanced with the same flavours from the nose backed up with baked plums and a very long finish. Excellent quality wine that drinks well in the next 10 years. The perfect BBQ wine!
Cuvée 1487 Reserve 2019:
It is made from the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes of the vintage with Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt. After the fermentation in stainless steel tank, this wine has been aged for 22 months in small oak barrels which contained 80% new oak barrels.
The nose showed deep, super ripe fruits of plums, cassis, blackberries and black cherries with spicy aromas of Bourbon vanilla, black pepper, coffee, cigar, some mint and dark chocolate. The heaviest and fullest-bodied wine from this selection with well-integrated, smooth tannin structure. The palate has more spicy flavours but still ends with a fruity long finish. Another excellent quality wine that is capable of aging another 10-15 years to show more evolved tertiary aromas and smoother tannins. Definitely pair it with a good steak, beef or game dishes with red wine or pepper sauce.
Conclusion: We can find premium quality wines in Burgenland and Zantho Wine makes a great job highlighting and focusing on these indegenous red varieties. We can definitely see some similar aromas but there are some distinctive differences on the structure of the wines regarding the grape variety used , the aging time and the question of either it is a blend of multiple varieties or a varietal wine.
Source:
The Author
1 thought on “Native varieties from Austria: Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt – through the examples of Zantho”