In the intricate world of wines, Malbec spins a tale of migration, resilience, and transformation. This robust and inky dark grape, once a luminary in Bordeaux, faced a tumultuous fate, only to find its true home in the high-altitude vineyards of Argentina.
How did Malbec disappear from Bordeaux?
Malbec, known as “Côt” in Bordeaux, was a key player in the blend of red Bordeaux wine, contributing deep color and robust tannins. However, a frost in 1956 proved catastrophic, wiping out 75% of the crops in Bordeaux. While the region pivoted to other varieties, Cahors, a neighbouring area hit by the same frost, continued cultivating Malbec. The winemakers blended Malbec with Merlot and Tannat, creating dark, full-bodied wines, and eventually ventured into crafting 100% Malbec varietals.
However, what led to the decline of Malbec in Bordeaux? Vulnerability to various vine diseases, coupled with the grape’s sensitivity to frost and coulure, contributed to its diminishing presence. Bordeaux, once a stronghold for Malbec, saw its plantings shrink, surviving only in select regions like Côtes-de-Bourg, Blaye, and Entre-Deux-Mers.
After Malbec’s True Origin
Before Bordeaux, Malbec’s roots delve into Cahors, Southwest France. Historically known as “Auxerrois” or “Côt Noir,” Malbec thrives in limestone-based soils, producing dark and tannic wines. The region’s unique terroir imparts a distinct character, with wines often referred to as “Black Wine” due to their intense color and robust tannins.
Thriving in this distinct environment, the grape takes on a robust persona, giving rise to wines renowned for their intense color and formidable tannins. Cahors stands testament to Malbec’s ability to mirror the terroir and captivate palates with its dark allure and structured character.
While a popular yet unverified theory traces its name to a Hungarian peasant, ampelographer Pierre Galet sheds light on a different narrative. Galet suggests that the original identity of Malbec might have been “Côt.” This intriguing piece of information hints at a possible birthplace in northern Burgundy.
The journey of Malbec’s name, however, doesn’t end there. Bordeaux, where the grape gained early attention, knew it by the synonym “Pressac.” The diverse synonyms for Malbec, including “Auxerrois,” “Noir de Pressac,” and others, reflect its rich historical presence in 30 different French departments.
Argentina’s Rise: Nicolás Catena Zapata’s Influence
In Argentina, Malbec underwent a renaissance, becoming the “national variety.” Introduced in 1868 by Michel Pouget, Malbec’s deep color and intense fruity flavors found a new identity. He transplanted Malbec vines from Bordeaux to Mendoza. The high-altitude terroirs of Mendoza, especially in regions like Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, proved ideal. The intense sunlight and significant day-to-night temperature variation coaxed out flavors previously dormant in Bordeaux. Argentine Malbec, characterized by smaller berries, became a symphony of blackberries, plums, and a hint of spice. Argentine vintner Nicolás Catena Zapata played a pivotal role, experimenting with high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza. The resulting Malbecs showcased aging potential and earned global acclaim.
Different Styles from all around the World
Malbec’s journey didn’t end in Argentina. Let’s explore its expressions worldwide:
- France – Cahors: Retaining old-world charm, known as Auxerrois or Côt Noir, produces wines with a rustic charm. Dark purple in color, these wines offer aromas of damsons, tobacco, garlic, and raisin. The tannic structure and phenolic compounds contribute to their robust nature.
- United States: Malbec experienced a resurgence in the mid-1990s as part of Bordeaux-style blends. While California leads in plantings, Oregon and Washington have also ventured into crafting varietal Malbecs. The grape’s dark fruit notes and herbal aromas characterize the wines from Washington State.
- Australia: Embracing a bold and fruit-forward personality, Australian Malbec offers lush, ripe berry flavors and a generous mouthfeel.
Other Global Players:
Chilean Malbec, part of Bordeaux-style blends, offers a tannic profile. Australia, despite historical challenges, has seen a slight resurgence in Malbec plantings. Beyond, Malbec has left its mark in regions like New Zealand, South Africa, Brazil, and even the high altitudes of Colorado.
Conclusion
Everything happens for a reason. Let’s thank Michel Pouget for bringing Malbec to South America and Nicolás Catena Zapata for believing in the grape in Argentina. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to enjoy a delicious glass of high-altitude juicy Malbec today. Or who knows?
Do you believe accidents happen for a reason and destiny plays a huge role in everyone’s life?
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