I’ve written about Tokaj before a couple of times, but I’ve never gone into such depth about Aszú. A recent tasting from the 2000s made me realize how much this legendary wine has changed over time. Often called the “wine of kings and king of wines,” Tokaji Aszú has a long history, but both the way it’s made and the way it’s classified have evolved. When I listened to winemakers talk about traditional and modern Aszú wines, I felt this was the perfect opportunity to describe those differences.
History of Tokaji Aszú
Tokaj is Hungary’s most famous and oldest wine region, with records of winemaking dating back over a thousand years. The first written mention appeared in 1571, and by the 18th century, it was one of Europe’s most expensive wines, enjoyed by royalty and intellectuals. The region’s volcanic soils and unique climate create ideal conditions for noble rot, allowing the production of complex, long-lived sweet wines. In 1737, Tokaj became one of the world’s first regulated wine regions, setting rules for how its wines were made and labeled.
During the 19th and 20th centuries, Tokaji Aszú experienced both success and struggle. The phylloxera epidemic devastated the vineyards, and later, during the communist era, mass production methods lowered quality. However, after the fall of communism, winemakers returned to older methods and invested in making the wine world-class again.
The Grapes That Make Tokaji Aszú Special
What makes Tokaji Aszú unique is both its grape varieties and the influence of Botrytis cinerea, also called “noble rot.” This beneficial mold shrivels the grapes, concentrating their sugar levels and flavors. The main grape, Furmint, has high acidity, which balances the wine’s sweetness and allows it to age for decades. Hárslevelű adds floral and honey notes, contributing to the wine’s aromatic complexity, while Sárgamuskotály (Yellow Muscat) enhances the fragrance with bright, fruity, and spicy tones. Some producers also use Zéta and Kabar, the other two varieties allowed in the wines of Tokaj. You can read all about these grapes here.
The interplay of these grapes, along with noble rot and winemaking techniques, gives Tokaji Aszú its signature depth, blending flavors of dried apricot, honey, citrus peel, and spices. They have a backbone of vibrant acidity, the real signature of Aszú wines, which is one of the main differences from Sauternes.
Traditional vs. Modern Winemaking
The process of making Tokaji Aszú is time-consuming and has changed over the years.
The Traditional Method
For centuries, winemakers picked botrytized (shrivelled) grapes one by one, ensuring only the best were used. These grapes, called Aszú berries, were soaked in base wine or unfermented grape juice (must) for 24 to 48 hours before being pressed. The extremely sweet juice was then fermented and aged in Hungarian oak barrels in cool, humid Tokaj cellars, often for several years. This aging method created wines with a deep amber color, caramelized flavors, and nutty, complex aromas.
Aging in oak barrels played a crucial role in shaping traditional Aszú wines. The slow oxidation added layers of dried fruit, toffee, and spice notes, while the porous nature of the barrels allowed gentle micro-oxygenation, which softened the structure of the wine over time. Traditionally, cellars lined with mold helped maintain humidity, further influencing the maturation process.
The Modern Approach
Since the late 20th century, winemakers have introduced new techniques to make fresher, fruitier versions of Aszú. Many now use gentler maceration (soaking) methods, lower fermentation temperatures, and reduced oxygen exposure during aging. Stainless steel tanks and careful sulfur management help preserve brighter fruit flavors and a lighter color. Some producers also experiment with shorter maceration times to highlight more delicate aromatics, while others aim for a balance between tradition and modernity, allowing controlled oxidation while maintaining that vibrant acidity.
Another change in modern Aszú production is the focus on vineyard selection and precision in harvesting. While the traditional style involved long maceration and extended barrel aging, today’s winemakers often take a more scientific approach, adjusting techniques to maintain freshness and purity of fruit while preserving the essence of noble rot.
How Has the Taste Changed?
In the past, Tokaji Aszú was deep amber with rich flavors of caramel, dried fruit, nuts, and honey. Modern versions often have fresher acidity and more pronounced fruit aromas, making them taste lighter and more precise while still maintaining the classic balance of sweetness and acidity.
Older vintages tend to show oxidative notes like roasted nuts, figs, and toffee, while younger, modern Aszús often present flavors of ripe peach, citrus, and tropical fruit, with a slightly brighter, more refreshing profile. The perception of sweetness has also changed. While the classic versions felt intensely rich due to extended aging, modern styles tend to have a more dynamic interplay between sweetness and acidity, making them more approachable even in their youth.
The New Puttonyos System
If we are talking about Aszú, we must mention one of the biggest changes lately. Historically, Tokaji Aszú was categorized by puttonyos, which referred to the number of 25 kg baskets of Aszú grapes added to a gönci barrel (136L) of base wine. The more puttonyos, the sweeter and more concentrated the wine.
In 2013, the system changed. Now, only 5 and 6 puttonyos Aszú are officially recognized, and they must contain at least 120 g/L of residual sugar. Wines with less sweetness are labeled Late Harvest or Tokaji Szamorodni, which follow a different winemaking process. You can read about these wine styles here.
The new classification focuses on sugar levels rather than the number of grape baskets used. Some winemakers prefer the old system because it felt more connected to tradition, but the updated system helps make the classification clearer for buyers. The highest category, Eszencia, remains unchanged. Apropos Eszencia, here is something else we must clarify.
Eszencia vs. Aszúeszencia
Eszencia is the most concentrated and rarest type of Tokaji wine. Made purely from the free-run juice of Aszú berries, it is incredibly sweet, often exceeding 450 grams of sugar per liter. With its syrupy texture and intense flavors of honey, dried fruits, and citrus, Eszencia is more like a nectar than a traditional wine. Due to its extreme sweetness and high natural acidity, it can age for centuries.
Aszúeszencia, on the other hand, was a historical classification used in older times to describe an ultra-rich Aszú wine that had an exceptionally high proportion of botrytized grapes. Today, this term is no longer officially used, but some collectors and historians still reference it when discussing legendary vintages of Tokaji.
Focus on the Vintage 2000–2009
Tasting Aszú wines from the 2000s reminded me of just how special this wine is. On the occasion of International Aszú Day, the Tokaj Research Institute organized a very successful museum Aszú tasting in 2023, presenting wines from the 1990–1999 vintages. Last year, the series continued with Aszús from 2000–2009. I was fortunate enough to attend this last tasting. It was a real overview of these traditional and modern-style Aszú wines. At the event, invited wine writers, sommeliers, and wine merchants were able to choose from more than 40 Aszús from nearly 20 Tokaj wineries.
Let me share my personal favorites with tasting notes from this unforgettable experience.
Gróf Dégenfeld
Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2004: A blend of Furmint and Hárslevelű, aged for two years in oak barrique. Contains 140 g/L residual sugar, but the freshness balances the wine perfectly. A fruity palate of peaches and apricots backed up with spices and ginger. A wine between traditional and modern styles.
Tokaji Aszúeszencia 2008: One of the legendary vintages of this decade, and this wine reflects that. A superb balance with more fruit character and amazing freshness, thanks to the 11.3 g/L acidity. With a remarkable sugar content of 212 g/L and less than 9% alcohol, this wine is still available for purchase on the winery’s website!
Tokaj-Hétszőlő:
Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2008: A lighter and fresher style thanks to the loess soil, with more fruit than spice, a good structure, and a lingering finish. Great acidity at 10.1 g/L and residual sugar of 151 g/L.
Sauska:
Tokaj 6 Puttonyos Aszú 2003: The wine was fermented in new barrels and aged for 36 months in 225-liter Hungarian, French, and American oak barrels, 10% of which were new. The blend consists mainly of Furmint grapes, with some Hárslevelű, boasting an impressive 222 g/L residual sugar. This is an unmistakably traditional Aszú wine with spices, tertiary aromas, and perfect balance. A long, spicy finish at the end. Another beauty that is still available on Sauska’s webshop.
Samuel Tinon:
Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000: One of the few winery owners of French origin, but he didn’t buy the winery for investment—he did it out of love and to make his own wine. This vintage was his first Aszú harvest, made from 90% Furmint and 10% Hárslevelű. He is committed to the traditional style, which truly shines through in his wines. This Aszú is filled with tertiary aromas, dried fruit, and even slightly tannic flavors on the palate—a unique but great wine with 190 g/L residual sugar.
Orosz Gábor:
Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2007: The flagship of the winery. A wine specialty made exclusively in outstanding vintages. The grapes, harvested in the Király vineyard, spend three years in barrels and one year in bottles before release. One of the few existing Aszús made exclusively from Hárslevelű in a modern style. A whopping 266 g/L residual sugar gives sweetness, but the acidity creates balance. Fresh and fruity (apricots, oranges) with a spicy background. Loved those ginger and honey flavors! Available on his webshop—definitely worth trying!
Grand Tokaj:
Museum Collection Eszencia 2000: The first vintage of the decade proved to be the driest of all, meaning the concentration of these berries was out of this world. Yes, it is not an Aszú, but if I had the chance to taste it, I couldn’t resist! A very unique wine that is absolutely syrupy, with chocolate notes, dried tertiary aromas, and a never-ending finish. I have to say, it was my favorite from the whole tasting, even though, as I said, it wasn’t the theme of the day. Grand Tokaj recently started releasing very old vintage Aszú wines for the market, especially for restaurants. I recently tried a 1956 vintage, and it was amazing! These wines are made in the traditional way, so expect a lot of nutty aromas, but the wine was still so fresh and even youthful—still a lot of time ahead of it!
Disznókő:
Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2003: I loved all three wines from Disznókő, but I would like to highlight the 2003. The other two wines were 100% Furmint-based, both with perfect balance and fresher fruity notes. This 6 Puttonyos is a little bit more traditional, with 75% Furmint and 25% Zéta from the Aszú berries, and Hárslevelű from the base wine. 2003 was also a dry vintage, and this wine is close to the 2005 vintage from them—the single-vineyard Kapi—where spices dominate, especially white pepper, ginger, honey, and a touch of saffron. 173 g/L residual sugar with 10 g/L acidity balances and lifts the palate. A very long, spicy finish at the end.
Barta Pince:
Öreg Király Dűlő Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2008: A top vintage and an excellent wine. A single-vineyard selection that indicates the modern style, packed with fruit, apricot marmalade, a hint of spices, and lots of freshness—needed next to the 244 g/L residual sugar.
Oremus:
Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2000: Talking about Aszú without mentioning Oremus would be a mistake. Famously owned by Tempos Vega Sicilia, which already guarantees high-quality wine. The lighter color of this wine already suggests that we have a modern style in our glass, which includes four grape varieties in the blend: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály (Yellow Muscat). Beautifully balanced wine with spicy ginger, honey, and apricots on the palate, exceptional freshness, and a very honeyed long aftertaste. Still so young—like most of these mentioned wines—that it is capable of aging for a couple more decades.
Tokaji Aszú Is Still Legendary
Despite these changes, one thing remains the same: Tokaji Aszú is one of the finest sweet wines in the world. Whether made in the traditional or modern style, its richness, complexity, and perfect balance of sweetness and acidity make it an unforgettable experience every single time. Fortunately, Aszú’s reputation continues to grow among wine lovers and collectors, with a renewed appreciation for both historic and contemporary styles.
The evolution of Aszú is not about abandoning tradition but refining techniques to express the unique terroir of Tokaj in new and exciting ways. I was amazed by the caramel-flavored traditional styles, and there is immense elegance in the single-vineyard selection modern styles. I know that most of these vintages are now rarely available on the market; however, when you come across a bottle, don’t deny yourself this once-in-a-lifetime experience!
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