Yes, Tokaj again. This region, nestled in northeastern Hungary, has given me another opportunity to write about it. The wine region of Tokaj, dating back to the 12th century and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, has so much to offer. This time I won’t write about the history and the region itself; you can read all about that here. I also have another article about Furmint, which you can learn more about here. However, there’s another topic I haven’t covered yet.
Did you know there are several other grape varieties in Tokaj that play an important role in the blend of the wines? The region permits six grape varieties in total: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály, Zéta, Kabar, and Kövérszőlő. Each grape adds unique traits to the wines, and together, they create the essence of Tokaj. This selection is based on centuries-old traditions. The region’s climate and soil make it perfect for producing complex, age-worthy wines of different styles. I will talk about those styles as well as the characteristics of the varieties and why they are important in the blend.
So first, let’s see the grapes:
Furmint
Furmint is the most widely planted and arguably the most important grape variety in Tokaj. It is known for its high acidity, which is crucial for the balance of sweet wines. The grapes are small, with thick skins that are highly susceptible to Botrytis cinerea, making them ideal for producing Aszú wines.
Role in Tokaj:
Furmint forms the backbone of Tokaj wines, particularly the famous Tokaji Aszú. Its high acidity provides the necessary structure and aging potential for sweet wines, allowing them to develop complexity over decades. In dry wines, Furmint showcases minerality and a distinctive flavor profile of green apples, quince, and sometimes a smoky note. As I mentioned, you can read all about its history here.
Hárslevelű
Which means “lime leaf” in English, has large, loose bunches of medium-sized grapes. It ripens earlier than Furmint and is less prone to Botrytis, making it suitable for both dry and sweet wines.
Role in Tokaj:
Hárslevelű is an ancient variety, grown in Tokaj for centuries. Its name reflects its lime leaf aroma. It often plays a supporting role in blends, adding aromatic complexity and richness to both dry and sweet wines. Its floral and honeyed character complements the more austere Furmint, resulting in a balanced and harmonious wine. In sweet wines, it enhances the bouquet and adds a layer of sweetness and roundness.
Sárgamuskotály
Also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Sárgamuskotály is renowned for its intensely aromatic profile. It has small, tightly packed bunches of golden-yellow grapes that produce wines with pronounced floral, grapey, and citrus aromas. Part of the broader Muscat family, Sárgamuskotály has ancient origins across Europe and the Mediterranean. In Tokaj, it has been cultivated for centuries.
Role in Tokaj:
As a supporting grape, Sárgamuskotály contributes a vibrant aromatic lift to Tokaj wines. It is particularly valued for its ability to enhance the fragrance of blends, bringing notes of orange blossom, rose, and fresh grapes. This grape is often used in the production of Tokaji Szamorodni and late harvest wines, where its perfume-like qualities shine through.
Zéta
Zéta, originally named Oremus, is a relatively new addition to the Tokaj grape repertoire, created in 1951 by crossing Furmint and Bouvier. It combines Bouvier’s early ripening and Furmint’s Botrytis affinity, making it excellent for sweet wine production. It produces small, compact bunches ideal for Aszú due to their concentrated sugar levels.
Role in Tokaj:
It brings a richness and depth to the blends, with flavors of apricot, honey, and tropical fruits. Its role is to enhance the concentration and natural sweetness of Tokaj wines, complementing the acidity of Furmint and the aromatics of Hárslevelű.
Kabar
Kabar is another modern hybrid, developed in the 20th century by crossing Hárslevelű and Bouvier. It ripens earlier than Furmint and has good resistance to fungal diseases, including Botrytis. The medium-sized grapes have high sugar content, enriching the wines.
Role in Tokaj:
Kabar contributes to the richness and body of Tokaj wines. It has a naturally high sugar content and adds a layer of tropical fruit flavors and honeyed sweetness to the blends. Kabar’s role is to provide an additional dimension of flavor and complexity, enhancing the overall profile of both dry and sweet Tokaj wines.
Kövérszőlő
It translates to “fat grape,” is an ancient variety that has seen a resurgence in recent years. The grapes are large and juicy, with a high natural sugar content. It is highly susceptible to Botrytis, making it suitable for rich, sweet wines.
Role in Tokaj:
Kövérszőlő is prized for its ability to produce rich, luscious, sweet wines. Its high sugar content and susceptibility to Botrytis make it perfect for late harvest and Aszú wines. It contributes to the weight and texture of the wines, adding flavors of ripe stone fruits, honey, and nuts.
Wine Styles of Tokaj
Tokaj is famous for its sweet wines like Tokaji Aszú, and you might have even heard about Szamorodni too if you are a frequent reader of this blog. However, the region also produces various other wines showcasing its versatile grapes and unique terroir. As I have promised, I would like to introduce the different styles you can discover if you open a bottle of Tokaj:
The Dry Wines
Dry Tokaj wines have been gaining popularity in recent years, with winemakers focusing on high-quality dry whites that express the minerality and character of the region’s volcanic soils. These wines are typically made from Furmint and Hárslevelű. They often show flavors of green apple, pear, citrus, and subtle smoky or flinty notes. The high acidity and structure of Furmint make these wines particularly suitable for aging.
Szamorodni
Szamorodni, meaning “as it comes” in Polish, refers to a style of wine made from whole clusters of grapes, including both healthy and Botrytis-affected berries. It can be made in either dry (száraz) or sweet (édes) styles, depending on the proportion of Botrytis-affected grapes. Dry Szamorodni is characterized by its oxidative aging process, which imparts a nutty, sherry-like quality to the wine, along with flavors of dried fruits and spices. Sweet Szamorodni, on the other hand, is rich and luscious, with honeyed sweetness balanced by refreshing acidity. I have written an article about the whole history and winemaking process of Szamorodni, which you can read here.
Fordítás
Fordítás, meaning “turning over” in Hungarian, is made by reusing the pressed paste of Tokaji Aszú grapes. Water or must is added to the paste, and it is fermented again to extract additional flavors and sugars. Fordítás wines are typically sweet, though less concentrated than Aszú wines. They retain the rich, honeyed flavors of Botrytis-affected grapes, with additional complexity from the second fermentation. The wines are aromatic and sweet, with notes of dried apricots, honey, and citrus.
Late Harvest
These wines are made from grapes that are harvested later in the season, allowing for extended ripening and, often, some degree of Botrytis infection. They are less intense than Aszú wines but still offer a refreshing sweetness. Lighter, more approachable wines than Aszú, with fresh fruit flavors such as apricot, peach, and citrus, complemented by floral and honeyed notes. They are often enjoyed young but can also develop additional complexity with age.
Tokaji Aszú
The elephant in the room, and the most important wine style of Tokaj. Tokaji Aszú is made from individually handpicked Botrytis-affected grapes (Aszú berries). These berries are added to a base wine and left to macerate, after which the wine is aged in barrels for several years. Aszú wines are renowned for their incredible complexity and balance. They are rich and sweet, with flavors of dried apricot, honey, orange peel, and spices, balanced by vibrant acidity. Aszú wines can age for decades, developing even greater depth and nuance over time. (Hint: this style is a very important one for your wine studies if you are going for a WSET L3 or CMS Certified course. If you don’t know how Aszú is made exactly, read this detailed description here.)
Tokaji Eszencia
Tokaji Eszencia is the rarest and most concentrated wine produced in Tokaj, made entirely from the free-run juice of Aszú berries. It is incredibly sweet and viscous, often taking years to ferment to even a few percent alcohol. Eszencia is a syrupy elixir with an unparalleled concentration of flavors and sweetness. It has intense notes of honey, dried fruits, and exotic spices, balanced by remarkable acidity. Eszencia is the most highly prized of all Tokaj sweet wine styles and is often enjoyed in as small quantities as only a spoonful—a special treat.
Conclusion
That is the real essence of Tokaj wines—it all lies in the carefully selected grape berries from each variety in the blend. While Furmint provides the structural backbone with its high acidity and minerality, Hárslevelű adds aromatic complexity and richness. Sárgamuskotály brings vibrant floral and citrus notes, while Zéta, Kabar, and Kövérszőlő enhance the sweetness, body, and depth of the wines. All of them play a crucial role, creating a balance in the flavors, aromas, and structure of the wines, making these wines truly unique.
After seeing this, I can’t help but see a huge similarity between the wines of Tokaj and the great wines of Bordeaux, where the harmony of a blend plays an equally big part in the reputation of the region (think of Sauternes if you will, but also in general). I must mention the equally great difference between the prices of those wines. It doesn’t matter which style we are talking about. That is one of the main reasons why I am so keen to write about Tokaj and show its diversity and prove that it has a place in every wine enthusiast’s and wine lover’s glass and even cellar for the long run.
Do you agree with me?
Photos by Wines of Hungary
