Franciacorta – Everything you need to know about Italy’s most exclusive bubbles

Welcome to Lombardy, where Franciacorta was the first wine produced in Italy using the bottle fermentation method to receive the DOCG designation. This guide is inspired by a masterclass experience I had last year, where we learned in the depths of Franciacorta’s history, permitted varieties, styles, and everything that made it one of the most exclusive sparkling wines in the world and why Franciacorta is Italy’s most exclusive sparkling wine. Let me share this guide with you where you can find every piece of information you need to master your knowledge and have some suggestions for which sparklers you should try from the area!

Franciacorta is identified only by the name of the geographical area within whose borders its vines and producers are located. On the labels, therefore, only Franciacorta is indicated: a single term describes the area, production method, and wine.

The History:

The name Franciacorta comes from “francae curtes” or free courts. In fact, after the arrival of Cluniac Monks in the 11th Century, the area was declared to be exempt from duties. In 1570, the Brescian doctor Gerolamo Conforti, in the book “Libellus de vino mordaci,” wrote of the outstanding aptitude of the Franciacorta area for producing “mordacious” or stinging wines, underscoring the significant distribution and widespread consumption – even in that era – of wines “with bubbles.” Franciacorta extends over nineteen municipalities in the province of Brescia, south of Lake Iseo in the heart of Lombardy.

Observing Franciacorta and the Lake Iseo area from the top, you can clearly see the shape of the morenic amphitheater. It was formed in the Secondary and Tertiary geological eras by a large glacier which, coming from Val Camonica, was divided into two branches immediately after the lake basin: a small one to the west and a much larger one to the east. The moraine-originating soils of Franciacorta have an enormous wealth of added minerals, which are different from those derived only from the autochthonous rocks found there, and this forms the basis for the area’s high-quality viticulture.

Permitted Grapes:

Chardonnay and Pinot Nero are the cornerstone grape varieties of Franciacorta. The use of Pinot Bianco is also permitted up to a maximum of 50%, and Erbamat up to 10%.

Erbamat is an old white varietal, indigenous to Brescia and long overlooked, despite its being around since the 16th century. Erbamat is now admitted in all styles except for Satèn. It is characterized by a late maturation (it takes at least a month more than Chardonnay and Pinot to ripen) and a strong acidity that gives a contribution of freshness to Franciacorta while preserving its identity.

The Wine Making Process:

• Harvest: The vineyards of Franciacorta have a maximum yield of 120 quintals per hectare and the harvest, made only by hand, takes place, depending on the vintage, between the first decade of August and the first of September.
• Pressing: From the soft-pressing of the grape bunches, they obtain the free-run juice for the production of the Franciacorta base wines. In spring, the cuvée will form.
• First Fermentation: Inside the tanks, the first fermentation takes place, and in spring, the winemakers create the cuvée blending together the juices coming from different grape varieties, vineyards, and harvests.
• Tirage: After the cuvée is assembled, the wine is bottled and receives a syrup composed of sugar and yeasts. These will start a slow, natural second fermentation of the wine, taking place inside the bottle.
• Maturation: The bottles are sealed with a metal crown-cap, then stacked horizontally in the cellar, where they remain for a long time.
• Riddling: After the maturation period, the bottles are inserted into traditional riddling racks or gyropallets in order to push the sediments and dead yeasts down into the neck of the bottle.
• Disgorgement: The metal plug and the sediments are removed. The bottle is refilled with the “liqueur d’expédition,” a mixture of Franciacorta base wine and sugar.

Decoding Franciacorta Styles:

Franciacorta offers a diverse range of styles. Each style showcases the region’s winemaking expertise and terroir-driven characteristics. But first, let’s see the different sweetness levels after disgorgement:

• Dosaggio Zero: sugar up to 3 g/l
• Extra Brut: sugar < 6 g/l
• Brut: sugar < 12 g/l
• Extra Dry: sugar 12-17 g/l
• Sec or Dry: sugar 17-32 g/l
• Demi Sec: sugar 33-50 g/l

Franciacorta:

• Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco (max. 50%), Erbamat (max. 10%).
• Maturation: minimum of 18 months from tirage. Bottle pressure between 5 and 6 bar.
• Styles: Dosaggio Zero, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec or Dry, Demi-sec
• Tasting Notes: Straw yellow with greenish or golden reflections, fine and persistent perlage, typical bouquet of bottle fermentation, hints of bread crust and yeast, enriched by fine citrus and dried fruit notes (almond, hazelnut, dried figs); spicy, fresh, fine, and harmonious.

Franciacorta Satèn:

• Grapes: Chardonnay (minimum 50%). The use of Pinot Bianco is possible (maximum 50%). Only white grapes. Compared to other Franciacortas, this type is characterized by a lower bottle pressure, less than 5 bar, which gives it a particularly soft taste.
• Maturation: minimum of 24 months from tirage with less pressure in the bottle, max. 5 bar
• Styles: Only Brut (also when Vintage or Riserva)
• Tasting Notes: Very fine and persistent perlage, almost creamy, of an intense straw yellow color with greenish reflections, nuanced but distinct scent of ripe fruit, accompanied by delicate notes of white flowers and nuts, also with roasted aromas (almond and hazelnut); pleasant spiciness and freshness harmonize with the typical silky softness.

Franciacorta Rosé:

• Grapes: Chardonnay (maximum 65%), Pinot Nero (minimum 35%). The use of Pinot Bianco (maximum 50%) and Erbamat grapes (maximum 10%) is permitted; the new list of requirements stipulates a significantly higher minimum proportion of Pinot Nero than the 1995 regulations. In fact, many Franciacorta Rosés have a proportion of well over 35% Pinot Nero.
• Method: White and red grapes are vinified separately. The Franciacorta Rosé can either be vinified as a single variety with the base wine Pinot Nero or produced by assembling it with base wines from other grape varieties. The Pinot Nero grapes ferment on the skins until the desired shade of rosé is achieved.
• Maturation: minimum of 24 months from tirage
• Styles: Dosaggio Zero, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra dry, Sec or Dry, Demi-sec

Franciacorta Vintage, Franciacorta Satèn Vintage, Franciacorta Rosé Vintage:

• Grapes: Made from the base wine of at least 85% of a single vintage.
• Maturation: Franciacorta Millesimato can only be sold after at least 37 months have passed since the harvest, of which 30 months must have been in contact with the yeasts in the bottle. This extended contact gives it its intense fragrance and exquisite, delicate aromas. However, Franciacorta Millesimato wines often remain in contact with the yeasts for much longer.
• Styles: Dosaggio Zero, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra dry (Except for Satén which is Brut only)

Franciacorta Riserva, Franciacorta Satèn Riserva, Franciacorta Rosé Riserva:

• Aging: A Franciacorta Riserva undergoes aging on the lees for at least 60 months and is therefore not sold until at least 67 months (five and a half years) after the harvest. It represents the highest expression of quality in the area and showcases the technical skills of Franciacorta winemakers in producing and interpreting this wine.
• Styles: Dosaggio Zero, Extra Brut, Brut (Except for Satén which is Brut only).

Personal Favorites:

During the Masterclass and later at the walk-around tasting, I got the chance to taste a large selection of what Franciacorta can offer, and I would like to share my favorites. These wines I can vividly recommend you try anytime!

BERLUCCHI ’61 Nature 2016

Let’s start at the beginning of Franciacorta history with Berlucchi, who produced the first wine in ’61, hence the number on the label. They are still the biggest producers of the DOCG, owning 550 hectares, which is 20% of all Franciacorta territory. The Nature is one of their finest labels, spending at least 5 years on the lees with 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay in the blend, grown in the estate vineyards of Arzelle, Rovere, San Carlo, and Ragnoli, all planted to a high density of 10,000 vines per hectare. This Zero Dosage sparkling has citrus and white flowers aromas that complement the oaky and buttery notes with fine perlage on the palate and a long savory finish.

BARONE PIZZINI Naturae EDIZIONE 2019

Another first in Franciacorta, this time about organic viticulture, where Barone Pizzini was the first producer to produce organic Franciacorta in 1997. Naturae only has 1 gram residual sugar, which makes it an Extra Brut. It is balanced, however, with autolysis and oaky character and lots of green apple flavors and fresh chalky minerality thanks to the limestone-rich soil. A fresh and clean expression with 61% Chardonnay and 39% Pinot Nero.

LA MONTINA Rosé EXTRA BRUT

One of my favorite Rosés from this tasting was made by La Montina with 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay. A beautiful color can be seen already in the bottle, and for me, it was surprisingly mineral for a rosé. The grapefruit was dominant on the palate with some red fruit character. This wine stayed in the bottle for at least 26 months on yeast before disgorging and has 3-4 grams of residual sugar.

VILLA FRANCIACORTA Boké Brut Rosé 2019

The most dangerous one I had on this tasting by Villa Franciacorta because this rosé was so perfectly in balance, I just wanted to sip more and more. Boké is 100% Pinot Noir from the vineyards located in Monticelli Brusati. It has 5 grams of residual sugar, and before the second fermentation, the wine spent 6 months in barrique and later 55 months on the lees. No wonder where the complexity comes from with full of red fruit flavor in the long refreshing finish.

LA TORRE Millesimato Pas Dosé 2016

A very elegant wine with lots of secondary flavors of butter, vanilla, and pastry with citrus and apple notes. An aromatic and intense long finish, which was the characteristic of the other two Franciacortas from La Torre. I was also impressed with the Brut 2019 and the Satén 2020 as well. But this Pas Dosé was the superstar for me. It was matured 58 months on the lees, and before that, the wine spent 6 months in barriques too.

CA’ DEL BOSCO Vintage Collection Extra Brut 2018

If you have heard about Franciacorta before, I am sure you already know Ca’del Bosco. I would say the most well-known producer from the region with high-quality sparklings. Their most iconic wine is the golden labelled Cuvée Prestige Edition but today I have tasted as well a different one, the Vintage Collection Extra Brut from 2018. I would like to highlight this wine today as I found it a very approachable one with a good balance, another example where you can start your Franciacorta journey. This wine is a big blend of 65% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Nero, and 6% Pinot Bianco from 26 certified organic vineyards that have spent 5 months in small oak casks. If you start to explore Franciacorta just now, then start here.

RICCI CURBASTRO Dosaggio Zero “Gualberto” 2013

One of the biggest highlights of the day as it was the most aged sparkling we had, the last wine of the masterclass. Gualberto Ricci Curbastro was amongst the first to believe in the Franciacorta DOC in 1967 and jumped into the game with great success. This is a blend of 60-70% Pinot Noir, and 30-40% Chardonnay from the vineyards of Capriolo. They used big barrels for the fermentation and aging then the wine spent an additional 5 years on the lees in the bottle. This wine has a more developed and riper fruit character, but the freshness is still on top. Lots of autolysis character with some slight caramel flavors. An 11 years old wine that still can be kept for another decade easily in the cellar. Would be exciting to taste it in 10 years again!

Sources:

Consortium Franciacorta

The Author