Everything you need to know about Sicilia DOC – Part 2: The Lesser-Known Native Grapes

This is the second article in my Sicilian wine series. In the first one, I introduced you to Grillo, Nero d’Avola, and Catarratto—grapes you’ve probably seen before if you’ve ever had a glass of Sicilian wine. Now, we’re going even deeper. This time, it’s all about the lesser-known native grapes that quietly carry centuries of tradition in every sip—and the Sicilia DOC Consortium, the organisation making sure these stories aren’t lost.

Let’s Talk About the Consortium

The Sicilia DOC Consortium came to life in 2011, but its mission feels timeless: protect Sicily’s native grapes and boost the region’s reputation worldwide. What makes it special is how it brings together both big-name producers and small family-run wineries—everyone pulling in the same direction for quality and authenticity.

It’s not just about rules and regulations (though those matter too). The consortium is a hub for sustainability, research, and education. They’re out there hosting tastings, leading masterclasses, and helping winemakers balance innovation with age-old techniques. Plus, they’re tackling the big stuff—like climate change—by encouraging eco-conscious viticulture. Because of their work, Sicilia DOC wines are no longer under the radar. That label now stands for more than just origin—it’s a badge of quality, transparency, and deep connection to the land.

Where It All Happens: Sicily in a Nutshell

Sicily isn’t just Italy’s largest island—it’s practically its own continent when it comes to diversity. Shaped like a triangle and stretching over 25,460 km², it includes not just the mainland but also islands like Pantelleria, the Aeolians, Ustica, and more.

The landscape is mostly hilly (over 60%), with pockets of flat plains and dramatic mountain ranges. Mount Etna looms large in the east, while smaller peaks dot the rest of the island. This rugged terrain, combined with a Mediterranean climate (hot summers, mild winters), creates a treasure trove of microclimates—each perfect for different grapes.

And Then There’s the Soil

Here’s the thing: soil really matters in Sicily. The island’s geologically complex history has created three main types of terrain:

• Basal complex: Found in areas like the Hyblaean plateau, the Sicanian mountains, and parts of Trapani and Palermo.
• Allochthonous terrain: Mainly located in the northeast and parts of Palermo and Castellammare del Golfo.
• Post-orogenic complex: Seen in central and southern Sicily, as well as along the coast.

From clay to sand to volcanic ash, these soils shape the grapes—and the wines—at a fundamental level. It’s part of why Sicilian wines are so expressive and distinct.

Sicilia DOC Native Grapes

Now to the stars of the show: Sicily’s native grape varieties. Some you might know, others might be brand new to you, but each brings something special to the glass.

White Grapes:

• Inzolia (Ansonica): One of Sicily’s oldest grape varieties, producing fresh, floral, and citrus-scented wines.
• Grecanico Dorato: A crisp, aromatic grape often blended with other whites.
• Moscato d’Alessandria (Zibibbo): Used for both sweet and dry wines, highly aromatic with floral and citrus notes.
• Carricante: The main white grape of Mount Etna, producing mineral-driven wines.
• Damaschino: A lesser-known variety used in blends for its light, floral qualities.
• Grillo: Covered in Part 1, known for its versatility and citrusy freshness.
• Catarratto: Covered in Part 1, one of Sicily’s most widely planted grapes.

Red Grapes:

• Nerello Mascalese: The flagship red of Mount Etna. Elegant, structured, and built to age.
• Frappato: Light-bodied with floral and red berry notes, often blended in Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
• Perricone (a.k.a. Pignatello): A historic Sicilian variety with bold tannins and earthy notes.
• Nerello Cappuccio: Often blended with Nerello Mascalese, adding colour and roundness.
• Alicante (Grenache): A Mediterranean variety that thrives in Sicily’s warm climate.
• Nocera: Rare but worth seeking out, mainly found in northeastern Sicily.
• Nero d’Avola: Covered in Part 1, Sicily’s most famous red grape.

Other Grapes Allowed in Sicilia DOC

While the focus is on native varieties, Sicilia DOC also allows a range of international grapes, giving winemakers some flexibility:

• White: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Fiano, Moscato Bianco, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Grigio, Vermentino.
• Red: Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Carignano, Sangiovese, and Mondeuse.

My Masterclass Tasting Experience

During my second masterclass in Sicily, I had the opportunity to taste four fascinating native grape varieties and get to know them better:

The line up

Now let me talk about the tasted wines individually and see the diversity of these grapes for yourself:

Principi di Butera “Carizza” – Insolia 2023: On the yeast for 6 months, no oak. Pale lemon colour, the nose has white blossom flowers, acacia, some lemon and white pepper. The palate has a light body with citrus notes, some honeysuckle, the white pepper shows itself on the long citrusy finish. Good acidity and balance.

Feudo Arancio – Inzolia 2023: From south-eastern Sicily. It has a deeper, more golden colour, riper and sweeter nose with honey, golden apple, honeysuckle, rosemary. The palate is more elegant, it has a more silky texture that gives body and riper fruit notes backed with that slight honey flavour, high acidity and very long finish. Great wine!

Tenute Mokarta “Talìa” – Zibibbo 2023: Ageing in steel tanks and on lees. It has a straw yellow colour with lots of aromas on the nose: jasmine, white peach, even some lychee. An aroma bomb on the palate with everything from the nose with a smooth silky texture. It has a medium body and a truly never-ending finish. Very well balanced.

Musita “Organicus” – Zibibbo 2023: Lighter, greener colour despite the bâtonnage, a much greener and spicier nose, even with some green bell pepper, green apple, thyme, rosemary. The palate perfectly reflects these green aromas with asparagus as well. A very interesting Zibibbo, still with a refreshing acidity, slightly lighter body and a spicier finish. For me, a very atypical Zibibbo.

Ferreri – Pignatello Rosato 2023: Stainless steel and lees ageing. Light salmon colour, flowery nose of rose, strawberry blossom and fruits, some raspberry. A refreshing wine with more floral aromas on the palate and a slight fruity aftertaste. It makes your palate crave another sip. Lovely rosé!

Valle dell’Acate “Il Frappato” 2023: Fruity wine of blueberries, cherries, with black pepper. The palate has smooth tannins, good acidity and more fruity flavours than spicy.

Donnafugata “Bell’Assai” – Frappato 2022: Light ruby colour, the fruits are riper and tend toward red forest fruits—cherry, strawberry—and the spices are more dominant and sweeter than in the previous wine: cinnamon, cloves. The palate has much higher and smoother tannins, making it more approachable right now. The fruits are dominant on the palate and the spices give the backbone. Great freshness and good balance, a long red fruity finish.

Cassarà – Perricone 2021: Aged in acacia oak for 18 months and 12 months in French oak. A deep ruby colour with hints of purple. The nose already indicates a bolder, warmer, sweeter, spicier wine with blueberry, red berry. Slightly earthy with cinnamon, vanilla, dark chocolate. The palate has full body, high tannins, spicy flavours from the nose with some blueberry. Great acidity balancing the alcohol and a long finish with those blueberry flavours again.

Final Thoughts

Sicilia DOC wines are more than just what’s in the glass—they’re stories of place, people, and perseverance. Whether it’s a floral Inzolia or a spicy Perricone, each sip feels rooted in something real. And thanks to the work of the Sicilia DOC Consortium, these wines aren’t just surviving—they’re thriving. If you’re a wine lover who craves authenticity and character, Sicily should be on your radar.

Stay tuned for the final part of this series, where I’ll take you inside the wineries and introduce the passionate producers keeping these traditions alive.

Photos by

Consortium of Tutela Vini Sicilia DOC

WinEncsy

The Author