If there’s one thing Sicily is famous for (besides jaw-dropping landscapes and amazing street food), it’s wine. I got to experience this during a three-day trip to Palermo, hosted by the Sicilia DOC Consortium. Between fascinating masterclasses and tastings, I learned all about what makes Sicily’s wine scene so special, especially its main grape varieties: Grillo, Nero d’Avola, and Catarratto (also called Lucido).
Sicily: A Little History
Sicily’s wine history stretches back to ancient times. People have been growing grapes here since at least the 8th century BC, starting with the Phoenicians. These ancient traders spread grape-growing knowledge and began exporting Sicilian wine. Imagine clay jars filled with sweet wines being shipped all over the Mediterranean! Today, Sicily is still a big deal in wine—if not even bigger! It’s Italy’s largest wine region, with over 97,000 hectares of vineyards—more than all the vineyards in New Zealand combined.
The Role of the Sicilia DOC Consortium
One of the reasons Sicilian wines have improved so much in the last decade is because of the Sicilia DOC Consortium. Formed in 2011, their goal is to protect and enhance the quality of Sicilian wines. They focus on producing less wine but of higher quality. In 2023 alone, over 85 million bottles of Sicilia DOC wine were made, showing the world what Sicily’s wines can offer.
The Consortium plays a significant role in promoting all the Sicilia DOC wines. By focusing on quality over quantity, they’ve helped put these wines on the World’s wine map. They also work to protect local grape varieties and encourage sustainable farming practices, which benefits both the environment and the wines. Thanks to their efforts, Sicilian wine is now known for being high-quality and true to its roots.
How Geography and Climate Shape Sicilian Wines
Sicily is like a patchwork of different landscapes, and this variety makes it a dream location for winemaking. The island has everything: volcanic soils around Mount Etna, sunny coastal areas, and rolling hills further inland. Each of these areas has unique conditions that influence the wines.
- Volcanic Soil: Around Mount Etna, the soil is rich in minerals from old lava flows. This gives wines from this area a distinctive, earthy quality.
- Sunny Coastal Regions: The coasts are perfect for grapes like Grillo and Catarratto, which thrive in warm, sunny climates. The sea breeze also helps keep the grapes healthy.
- Hills and Altitude: In the higher, cooler areas, grapes like Lucido develop fresh flavors and crisp acidity, making the wines vibrant and refreshing.
Sicily’s weather is another big factor. The island gets plenty of sunshine, but it’s also surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, which helps keep temperatures from getting too extreme. This balance of heat and coolness allows the grapes to ripen perfectly while retaining their natural acidity.
Main Grapes in Sicily
Grillo
Grillo is one of Sicily’s most popular white grapes. Even though it’s not that old (first mentioned in 1873), it’s become a favorite, especially in western Sicily around Trapani. It’s actually a cross between two other grapes—Catarratto and Zibibbo (also known as Muscat of Alexandria)—which gives it a unique character.
Grillo grows well in Sicily’s sunny, dry weather. It makes wines that are fresh and citrusy, with flavors like grapefruit and passion fruit. Some versions are light and easy to drink, while others are aged in barrels for a more complex character. No matter the style, Grillo always seems to capture the feeling of Sicily’s bright, warm sunshine.
Nero d’Avola
Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s most famous red grape. Its name means “Black of Avola,” referring to its dark color and the town of Avola in southeastern Sicily. It’s been around since at least the 1600s and was once used to make other wines stronger during tough times in Europe’s wine history.
Today, Nero d’Avola showcases Sicily’s talent for making bold, flavorful reds. The wines are full of juicy cherry and plum aromas with hints of spice. They’re rich but still have enough freshness to keep them balanced. It’s the kind of wine that feels just right for a Mediterranean dinner.
Catarratto (Lucido)
Catarratto, also called Lucido in its newer, more refined form, is one of the most planted grapes in Sicily. For a long time, it wasn’t considered very special and was mainly used for Marsala wine or blends. But that’s changed. Thanks to better winemaking, Catarratto is now recognized for its potential.
This grape makes wines that are fresh and zesty, with floral aromas and green apple flavors. Grown at higher altitudes, it can also show a lovely minerality. Lucido, in particular, is becoming a favorite for its light and aromatic qualities. It’s a great example of how even a humble grape can shine when given the right care.
Tasting Notes
On my second day of the press trip, I had the privilege to taste some of the best examples of these varieties, selected by the Consortium itself to showcase their true characteristics and potential. We tasted two Catarrattos, three Grillos, and three Nero d’Avolas from various areas of Sicily.
Here they are:
Assuli Baglio – Donna Angelica Lucido 2023:
It has a light golden color with fresh floral notes of orange blossom, white blossom, orange peel, ripe apricot, and some pineapple with honeysuckle and butter, thanks to the battonage process. Fresh and powerful on the palate with ripe stone fruits, lemon and orange flavors, a medium-plus body, and a long buttery aftertaste.
Alessandro di Camporeale – Benedè Catarratto 2023:
From Camporeale in western Sicily, the best area for Lucido at 400 meters above sea level with a high diurnal range to maintain the grapes’ freshness. The wine has spent 6 months in steel tanks on the lees and an additional 3 months in the bottle before release.
It has more citrusy and mineral notes with lemon, red apple, white blossom, white peaches, and just a touch of butter on the nose. A clean and fresh palate, slightly lighter than the previous wine but with a long citrusy finish. The flavors are harmonious with the aromas from the nose, a well-balanced wine.
Cantine Polini – Gurgo Grillo 2023:
A 100% Grillo from the Marsala area that has spent 6 months in cement tanks. A youthful, fresh wine with pear, stone fruits, and even some honey on the nose. The palate shows a beautiful silky texture with some cream, citrus, and stone fruits. The wine has a medium body and a lovely lingering finish.
Fondo Antico – Grillo Parlante 2023:
A very similar wine to the previous one with slightly more minerality and riper fruit character. Again, a lovely silky texture with a medium body and a long citrusy finish.
Tenute Lombardo – Grillo d’Altura Superiore 2023:
Here, exotic fruits dominate on the nose with passion fruit, pineapple, mango, white peaches, and white blossom flowers. The palate can trick you with its sweetness from the ripe exotic fruits, backed up with a good deal of freshness and some sweet spices. A well-balanced, medium-bodied wine with a long fruity finish.
Tenute Cuffaro – Donna di Rosé Spumante Brut 2022:
Yes, here is a cuckoo’s egg, a sparkling wine made from 100% Nero d’Avola! It has a lovely pale peach color with fine but bigger bubbles, floral notes of peach blossom with raspberry and cherries. A good texture on the palate that is slightly creamy with the same red fruits from the nose. Expressive perlage and a lingering finish.
Botticella – Gilea Rosso Nero d’Avola 2022:
There are lots of red fruits at the first sniff (strawberry, raspberry, cherry) with some black currant and spices (dark chocolate, coffee, mint). Powerful but smooth palate, the spices are more dominant, backed up with those red fruits. A great tannin structure that’s ripe and balanced with high acidity. A medium-plus to full-bodied wine with a spicy long finish.
Baglio di Pianetto – Cembali Nero d’Avola Riserva 2018:
Unfortunately, this was the last vintage produced from Baglio di Pianetto; they are not making this wine anymore. However, it was one of the best in this assortment!
It has a deep ruby color, and the nose was more powerful than the previous Nero d’Avola. Spicier and warmer, packed with sweet spices from the oak aging as well as those chocolaty and minty characteristics. Of course, I could already detect some tertiary aromas too, with sweeter, riper red fruits and more cherry tart. Elegant wine on the palate, even-tempered, and silky-smooth tannins. Aromas are coming back from the nose and it has a good balance between the high alcohol, the big flavors, and freshness with a full body.
Conclusion
Visiting Sicily and learning about its wines was an amazing experience. From the golden Grillo to the bold Nero d’Avola and the refreshing Catarratto, each grape tells a story about the island’s history, culture, and unique landscapes. And it’s not just the wines that are impressive—the people and their passion for winemaking are just as inspiring.
Stay tuned for my next article, where I’ll dive into the other important varieties of the island. I’ll also share more about the Sicilia DOC itself and the wineries I visited during those three days!
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