When you visit the same winery twice in the same year, you know it is special. This is what happened to me with Esterházy. During my first visit, I had the chance to dive deep into their history and philosophy, and the second time was a press invitation for something unique. This time, I would like to paint a picture of an almost 500-year-old winery and how it can be modern and renewed with the right mindset.
Esterházy Winery: History Meets Innovation
The name Esterházy holds significant weight in both Austria and Hungary, and it’s easy to see why when you visit the Esterházy Winery in the Leithaberg region of Burgenland. The estate’s history stretches back to the 16th century, blending centuries-old traditions with modern approaches. The Esterházy family was among the first to plant Pinot Noir in Austria, producing the first-ever single-vineyard Pinot Noir in 1758. At that time, Pinot Noir was a highly prized grape among European nobility for its elegance. Today, even though the last family member passed away in 2014, the winery continues to honor this legacy of innovation and respect for tradition.
The Leithaberg Terroir
The Leithaberg region is bordered by the Neusiedlersee lake to the east and the dense Leitha Forest to the north. This unique setting creates a balanced, cool-climate environment ideal for viticulture. The lake moderates temperatures, ensuring long growing seasons, while the hillsides—where all 65 hectares of Esterházy’s vineyards are located—provide excellent drainage, preventing excess water retention and encouraging deep root growth. No vineyard here lies on flat land, a notable feature that adds to the intensity and structure of the wines. Hillside vineyards benefit from better sun exposure, which ensures optimal ripening, and superior water drainage, which encourages deep root systems and reduces the risk of overwatering. These factors contribute to concentrated flavors and wines with exceptional balance.
Soil composition is a defining element of the estate’s wines. The vineyards feature a diverse mix of limestone, slate, and ancient Leitha limestone. A comprehensive soil analysis on 40 hectares took place in the last couple of years, further enabling the team to understand and unlock the full potential of their land.
A New Chapter for Esterházy
In 2019, Frank Schindler took over as Managing Director, bringing a fresh vision to the winery. His focus was on creating wines that reflect the cool-climate elegance of the region while respecting the land’s history. Alongside Schindler, oenologist Robert Krammer brought his expertise to refine winemaking techniques, while sales manager Wolfgang Hewarth joined in 2022 with experience from Jurtschitsch, a leading name in natural wines.
In 2023, the winery embraced organic viticulture, aiming for wines that express the true character of the land. Esterházy’s focus on quality is reflected in their production of 250,000 bottles annually, with an emphasis on low yields and high-quality grapes. The estate’s vineyards, with an average vine age of 30–40 years, are managed using organic methods, soft pruning, and compost made on-site, all while avoiding irrigation.
Thoughtful Winemaking
Esterházy’s winemaking approach reflects a mix of tradition and experimentation. In 2005, the current cellar was built, equipped with modern tools that support their vision. Spontaneous fermentations have been the standard since 2020, allowing the natural yeast to showcase each variety’s character. Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Grüner Veltliner—the estate’s flagship varieties—are treated with care to express their full potential.
The team continuously experiments with aging vessels to find the perfect match for each wine. Barrels made from Esterházy’s own Leithaberg oak add subtle spice and structure, while granite and basalt vats emphasize minerality. Clay amphorae bring a sense of purity and vibrancy, and Europe’s largest 3,800-liter concrete eggs from Pauliberg basalt lend texture and a fine balance to the wines. All play a role in the cellar. The motto here is: “What grows together, goes together.”
Looking Toward the Future
Esterházy’s history is long and storied, but the current team is reinterpreting this legacy through a modern lens. The winery’s new wine labels, designed by illustrator Birgit Kiennast, combine historical symbols, like the Golden Fleece, with a clean, contemporary aesthetic. The wines are classified into three categories—regional wines, village wines, and single-vineyard wines—each offering a different level of complexity and depth.
In addition to their traditional selection, the winery’s Project Wines focus on experimentation. These unfiltered, expressive wines are proof of Esterházy’s commitment to pushing boundaries and crafting unique bottles that appeal to those who enjoy wines with character and personality.
Wines to Explore
During my visits, I got the chance to taste the majority of their wine selection. Now, I would like to focus on the new releases with the brand-new labels.
Sankt Margarethen Furmint 2023
A village wine from the star variety of Hungary, grown on limestone soil. Only 1,100 bottles were produced. It has a medium golden color with medium-plus viscosity. An intense aroma on the nose with stone fruits (apricot, peach), citrusy lemon peel, white blossom flowers, and honey in balance. The palate shows more citrus with apricot notes, lots of freshness, and chalky minerality. Well-integrated alcohol and a medium body with a lingering finish.
Großhöflein Pinot Blanc Leithaberg DAC 2023
A village wine with a DAC classification from clay-rich limestone soil. Spontaneously fermented in used 500-liter tonneaux, then spent six months on the lees. This wine has a vivid light golden color with aromas of golden apple and Mediterranean cooking spices. The palate is fruity with pears and apples, complemented by a saline undertone. A well-balanced wine with more structure than the Furmint and a very long finish.
Ried Herrschaftsbreite Monopol Blaufränkisch Rosé 2023
A single-vineyard rosé matured in its own Leithaberg oak cask. Made from 20-year-old Blaufränkisch vines, this wine has a light salmon color with intense raspberry, strawberry, and spicy aromas. The palate is light, red-fruity, and very approachable, with good freshness, balance, and a long finish—a perfect food-pairing rosé.
Ried Schildten Monopol Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC 2021
A single-vineyard Monopol wine from a DAC classification that showcases the best qualities of Blaufränkisch. From a south-facing slope with shell limestone and mica schist, the vines are up to 37 years old. Spontaneous and malolactic fermentation is followed by 16 months in partly new Leithaberg tonneaux, then six months of bottle aging. A ruby-colored wine with a deep, complex nose of sweet cooking spices (cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper), vanilla, and dark fruits (black currant, blueberries). The flavors on the palate harmonize with the aromas, featuring smooth, ripe medium tannins and a long, complex spicy-fruity finish.
We didn’t taste a Pinot Noir at the press conference, but I had the chance to try it during my first visit. Since it is a true specialty of Esterházy, I would like to include it on my list:
Großhöflein Pinot Noir 2021
A village wine from 30–40-year-old vines. This wine doesn’t aim to complicate life but rather offers enjoyment. A fruity and fresh nose of strawberry, cherry, and sweet spices. The palate surprises with firm tannins, lots of freshness, and a long fruity finish. A balanced, high-quality wine.
On this last photo you can see the old label, alongside with the Pinot Noir and the Blaufränkisch selection I have enjoyed on my private visit. Which labels do you prefer?
Conclusion
The Esterházy Winery is a testament to how history and modernity can coexist. From hillside vineyards and organic practices to innovative winemaking, every bottle tells the story of a place where tradition meets bold new ideas. For anyone seeking wines that are precise, vibrant, and full of character, Esterházy is undoubtedly one to watch. I consider myself extremely lucky to have experienced these wines multiple times last year, and I hope this small tradition will continue in the coming years with the new vintages and Project Wines.
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