I have started a series to introduce some hungarian wine regions and wines, and today I am going to talk about something you have probably heard of already. The Egri Bikavér – „Egri” means from the town of Eger, and „Bikavér” literally translates as Bull’s Blood – has a long history behind but do you know the story? And the grape varieties used in the blend? Or shall we start at the region, which is called Eger too? I say let’s start at the beginning and first learn about the region itself and see why is this wine something we have to talk about!
Eger lies on the north-west part of Hungary just south-east of Tokaj and has a relatively cool climate. 4395 hectares are under vines, in the past the majority was white grapes but with the new fashion, red varieties took charge and overgrow them. It means that we can have amazing white wines from here. Despite what most people think it is a red wine region. Comparisons have been made with Burgundy, regarding the styles of Pinot Noirs and even Chardonnays from that corner of Hungary but if we say northern Rhone Valley is more similar, it is not absolutely wrong as we can find some exceptional Syrahs too. Then we have to pay attention to Cabernet Franc and Merlot from a few unique spots as well, which means this region is home to some great wine blends, reds and whites included.
The flagship red blend called Egri Bikavér. The name comes from the invasion of Suleiman the Magnificent around 1552. To motivate and support the small group of soldiers during the Siege of Eger castle they were served delicious food and a lot of red wine. Among the Turkish soldiers it was rumored that bull’s blood was mixed into the red wine, as otherwise the strength and firm resistance of the town and castle of Eger could not be explained. Finally the enemy gave up. The composition of the blend has changed over the years, at the beginning the backbone was the indigenous variety Kadarka, a red variety, probably the oldest one in Hungary. Difficult to grow, only gives exceptional wines in warm years, much like Pinot Noir it gives light, fresh and elegant wines with low tannin structure and flavours driven by spices. Today the blend is anchored by the ancient Kékfrankos variety aka Blaufrankisch, a popular grape in the neighbouring Austria where it is originates. Officially Egri Bikavér must contain at least three of the following 13 grapes: Bíbor kadarka, Blauburger, Cabernet franc, Cabernet sauvignon, Kadarka, Kékfrankos, Kékoportó, Menoire, Merlot, Pinot noir, Syrah, Turán and Zweigelt.
There are different designations of Bikavér:
- The standard, called „Classicus” must contain 3 of the varieties mentioned above at least 5% but not more than 50% and the highest proportion must always be Kékfrankos. It has to be aged in oak at least for 6 months and it can be released only after a year of bottle ageing.
- „Superior” and „Grand Superior” has to be composed of at least five varieties, of which between 30-50% must be Kékfrankos. Other varieties must be a minimum of 5% and a maximum of 30% in the blend, except Turán which cannot exceed 5%. It needs to age at least 12 months in wooden cask and 6 months in bottle before releasing on the market. Regulations on the composition of the blend and yields (maximum 60 hl/ha), the wine making technology and minimum alcohol level also differs from normal Egri Bikavér. All those regulations are aiming for an overall higher quality wine.
A great Bikavér is perfectly blended and none of the varieties characteristics stand out. It has a well-integrated tannin structure and alcohol feeling. In the last couple of years the quality of these wines increased enormously so now you can purchase a bottle (specially a Superior) without any regrets!
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