When you walk into a wine shop, most of the time, you will come across the latest released vintages of all wines. It doesn’t matter if we’re talking about white, rosé, red, or sweet wines—this is the trend. Everyone wants to sell as soon as possible and move on to the next vintage, rather than keeping them in the winery’s cellar for long. There’s a reason for that: It’s not cost-effective, as older vintages take up space that could be used for newer ones.
For most wines, this approach is ideal. Over 90% of the world’s wine production is made for immediate consumption while young. However, there are some wines that are well worth the wait. If stored properly, these wines can develop more complex flavors and aromas over time. It’s not just about flavor; with red wines, tannins soften and integrate, giving a much more approachable mouthfeel. That’s what I’d like to show you today.
Comparing Two Legendary Vintages
Recently, I attended a tasting to compare two legendary vintages in Austria: 2009 and 2011. Organized by the Sommelier Association of Burgenland, we focused on its main wine styles: red wines of Blaufränkisch and the Bordeaux varieties. Sometimes, Burgenland is affectionately called “Blaufränkischland” to highlight its most important variety, especially in Mittelburgenland, where they’ve developed a whole classification system around this grape. I’ve already written about that—you can read it here.
Now, let’s dive into these legendary vintages.
Why Are “9er” Vintages Legendary?
There’s a saying in Austria that the “9er” vintages (years ending with a 9) are legendary. This began in 1959 and has continued, with each decade bringing better and better results.
The 2009 vintage was a year of extremes, but it ultimately lived up to expectations, producing fruit-forward wines with immense aging potential.
2011, while less extreme, also had its challenges—frost damage, hail, high humidity in early summer, and extreme heat in August. Thankfully, a warm Indian summer saved the vintage, creating ideal conditions for harvest. The result? Beautifully structured wines with ripe fruit and soft tannins, perfectly suited for aging in barrique.
Expectations and Reality: Tasting Notes
With these background insights, I had high expectations—and I wasn’t disappointed. We tasted the 2011 selection first, followed by the 2009 vintage. The wines were different, so we didn’t compare the same wine across two vintages, except for one producer. Both vintages featured complex, soft, well-balanced examples from some of the best red wine producers in the region.
Vintage 2011
Prickler – Blaufränkisch Grande Reserve V-MAX:
This reserve wine spends 24 months in barrique. Expect balanced spices and dark fruit aromas like blackcurrant and vanilla. It’s smooth, juicy, full-bodied, with an intense, long finish. This wine has room for development and could age beautifully for another 5 years.
Gesellmann – Blaufränkisch Hochberc:
The flagship wine from a single vineyard on chalky, mineral-rich slopes. A deep ruby color and an elegant nose of chocolate and dark fruits. It’s smooth with a mineral edge on the palate and has a never-ending finish. This wine has plenty of life left in it—cellar it for another 5-7 years.
K+K Kirnbauer – Das Phantom:
A blend of Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, this wine boasts herbal and Mediterranean spices, with notes of cassis, plum, black cherry, tobacco, chocolate, and vanilla. Full-bodied with a high tannin structure and 13.5% alcohol, it finishes with a long, spicy note.
Hans Igler – Ab Ericio:
A blend of 40% Blaufränkisch, 30% Zweigelt, and 30% Merlot. Red cherries and plums dominate, with the typical spices of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. High tannins indicate it needs more time in the cellar—this wine has enormous aging potential.
Vintage 2009
Eichenwald – Blaufränkisch Ried Dürrau:
A single-vineyard wine with a smoky nose, graphite notes, and dark fruit aromas like blackberry and blackcurrant. The palate is surprisingly lively, with high tannins, full body, and a very long finish.
Wieder – Blaufränkisch Mittelburgenland DAC Reserve:
The only wine tasted in both vintages, the 2009 version was spicier than the 2011, with cherries, cocoa, and pepper. It has an even greater aging potential than its 2011 counterpart, with many years of life still ahead.
Ernst – La Mission:
This wine offers lovely fruit notes of dark cherries, plums, and cassis. On the palate, spices emerge, though they don’t overpower the juicy fruit flavors. A well-balanced wine with integrated tannins and a long finish.
Heinrich – elegy:
A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with an elegant and intense nose. Fruits and spices are perfectly balanced—think tobacco, cassis, dark chocolate, plums, coffee beans, and vanilla. Juicy with a good tannin structure and immense aging potential, this was the absolute standout of the day for me, offering excellent quality and balance.
Conclusion: 2009 vs. 2011 – Which Vintage Wins?
Both vintages were excellent and, despite the challenges, produced some remarkable wines. The 2009 is celebrated as one of Austria’s legendary “9er” years, and I found myself more drawn to this vintage. The wines from 2009 were more to my personal taste, though both offer tremendous aging potential.
This tasting is a reminder that while most wines are sold for early consumption, there is beauty in waiting. With the right wines, such as these reds from Burgenland, you can experience something truly exceptional even after a decade or more. And don’t limit yourself to reds—white and sweet wines can also develop surprising complexity with age.
Have You Tasted Aged Wines?
Have you ever tried older vintages, whether from Burgenland or elsewhere? What are your favorites? Let me know in the comments or share your experiences!
Source: AustrianWine.com
